# Yet Another First Coop Build



## OpaN (Jun 3, 2013)

So, about 6 weeks ago, my wife sticks a page from Country Living magazine under my nose, and says “You could build this, right.” “This” was a chicken coop tractor. My reply was, yes, but why? “So we can raise some chickens.” And so it started.

I researched tractor coops, looked at some “free” plans, and decided on a basic 4 x 10 tractor coop. I sketched out a plan, and settled on a frame made of 2x4s, with the boards turned up on edge for the greatest strength. Make the coop part 4’ wide x 3’ deep, with a gable roof. Put wheels on the coop end so I can pull it around the yard with my garden tractor.

So, I would need 4 – 2x4 x 10’ length boards, and the rest 2x4 x 4’, or 2x2 x 4’ for the other pieces of the frame. At this point I began searching CraigsList for lumber, and was fortunate to find 2x4 material for $.35 a board foot. I spent $60.00 for the 2x4s and 1x4s I needed. The lumber was not pressure treated, so I would need to paint the boards. Fortunately I have a gallon of the same paint used on my house exterior. So, I pre-cut all the 2x4 lumber, and painted the boards pre-build.

To build, I would use the Kreg pocket jig system, and build the sides and ends in a tilt-up modular system. Here are some photos of the initial construction:


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## Pinkter (Aug 19, 2012)

You're a good man Charlie Brown!!


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## ReTIRED (Mar 28, 2013)

*Yep !
*_OFTEN...._this is *HOW* it starts.
_Quote: _So, about 6 weeks ago, my wife sticks a page from Country Living magazine under my nose, and says "You could build this, right." "This" was a chicken coop tractor. My reply was, yes, but why? "So we can raise some chickens." And so it started. _Unquote.

Fortunately....SOME of us "fellas" _really ENJOY building such "stuff"...as *YOU apparently DO !!!

*It's looking excellent so far *!!!

"Building" *AND "*Repairing*" things....has ALWAYS been a GREAT JOY to me, also.
( I once refused the "help" of a Carpenter friend of mine ....when he offered me a GOOD PRICE for building me a new "WELL-House"...
....after I inadvertently _BURNT _mine. I told him that I would do-it-myself...AND that I was going to "rebuild-it".....from the TOP-DOWN..._rather than ..._from the GROUND-UP.....which I did. It is VERY GOOD !!! *Ha-Ha !!! *)

SOME "Projects" are just a LOT of *FUN !!!

*Please continue to "show-your-work" !
-ReTIRED-


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## OpaN (Jun 3, 2013)

Continuing my Coop Build: With the two sides and ends completed, I tilted them up, clamped and screwed it all together, and had a basic box frame. At this point I didn’t know what I would do for a roof, so I made some gable trusses for the coop roof. My options were to do a plywood roof with shingles, or some form of a metal roof. 

I needed wheels for the tractor, and went to Northern Tool for a pair of 10” wheels at $5.99 each ($13.00 total). I had some z-brackets laying around, and by drilling and bolting together, came up with a hinge system so the back end can jack up to engage the wheels to tow it around. Two more z-brackets on the front form a tongue to hook up to the garden tractor. More pictures:


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## rob (Jun 20, 2012)

looking great so far, keep us updated


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## ReTIRED (Mar 28, 2013)

The Z-brackets _apparently _will fulfill their intended function....IF the weight is not too much for them.
It is a HUGE advantage in CUSTOM building....to have a Welder, Cutting Torch, and a Grinder.....for fashioning SPECIFIC Metal Designs for your Custom Design.
( I have used a LOT of "throw-away" Scrap Metal for such construction. THAT is ALSO *FUN !!! *)

I see that you used a "bird-mouth" cut on your Rafters. ( GOOD CONSTRUCTION ! )

Your THICK Wooden-Top WORKBENCH looks like a very stable platform !!!
( I should build one _similar _to that *!!! *I built a Steel-Table for my Metal Lathe from old bed-frames and put screw-type feet on 2 legs to use for LEVEL-adjusting. the other support ( rear-portion and LAST INSTALLED ) was the shop WALL.....then I placed the Lathe on 2-inch OAK and used brass shims and a VERY EXPENSIVE super-accurate level to do the FINAL adjustments. The Lathe cut _PRECISELY _...within 1/10,000 inch.)

Metal-Working equipment provides MUCH _flexibilty _in creating _SPECIFIC DESIGNS.

_SORRY 'bout the LONG posting.....just "shooting-the-breeze".

Keep the updates and pictures coming. It is interesting *!!! 
*-ReTIRED-


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## OpaN (Jun 3, 2013)

Weight has been a top consideration for me. I weighed my 2x4s and learned that 1' of 2x4 weighs 1# 2 oz. Doing some math tells me that I am looking at about 350# total weight for the coop, with most of the weight on the coop end. I hope I can keep the tongue weight at less than 80#; otherwise I will have a problem lifting and attaching it to my garden tractor. I have figured out a way to use a bottle jack to lift up the coop end to insert the straightening pins into the z brackets. (a 2x4 T- brace extending out the back of the coop, also serving as a mounting spot for the nesting box). The thick work bench shown in the photo is really just a beefed-up pallet sitting on some saw horses. It is easy to move around.


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## OpaN (Jun 3, 2013)

I continued to search CraigsList for lumber, etc, and missed out on some opportunities for reclaimed wood fence sections 6’ high, to use to construct the walls for the coop. And, I visited my neighbor who has raised chickens for 5 years to get some ideas from him. I learned that in Central North Carolina I don’t need to worry about protecting the chickens from a harsh winter, etc. He lets his chickens free range year-round. So, that means I can make the coop side walls a screen frame with hinges to drop down for ease of cleaning. A trip to the Habitat for Humanity Re-Store produced door hinges for $.50 each. Total of 6 hinges to handle the two sides of the coop plus the nesting box lid. ($3.00 spent here.)

Since I couldn’t find the fence boards, I splurged and bought 24 pressure treated fence boards from the Home Improvement store (size 5-1/2” x 5/8” a 6’ length for $1.20 each (call it $30.00 with tax.) This is sufficient for the front and back walls of the coop, the nesting box, the sliding coop door, and the ramp from run to coop. Here is the progress so far:


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## ReTIRED (Mar 28, 2013)

*NICE !!!

*As it looks....I'd be _TEMPTED _to "stain" it with an Oak Stain...and then finish it with a coat or two of Clear Polyurethane !

VERY ATTRACTIVE WORK that you have done...at small expense *!!!
*-ReTIRED-


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## OpaN (Jun 3, 2013)

Just in case I haven’t been clear, I am trying to get this coop built with a high level of quality, and at the least cost. When it is finished, I will recap all my costs, and hopefully will show you can build a low cost coop well. In that vein, we’ve kept scouring CraigsList, and found a listing for some left over standing seam metal roof material. (Just make an offer.) Well, I made an offer for $25.00, and got a reply to come and get it. I got a whole bunch of roof decking, flashing, and a bonus of 10- 2x4 x 12’ boards. This gives me enough material to roof over the entire tractor, and not just the coop end! I checked the web site of the metal roof manufacturer, and found an installation manual for their roof. Back to work:


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## rob (Jun 20, 2012)

coming on great


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## OpaN (Jun 3, 2013)

*Setback and Finish*

Minor Setback. I decided it was time to test the wheels to be sure the tractor would work. When I lowered the jack to put weight on the wheels, the hinge struts collapsed! Back to the drawing board. And back to the home improvement store. I purchased two - 24" long pieces of structural steel angle 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8" thickness, and a 6' length of 5/8" threaded rod. $21.00 cost overrun on the project. I used an available 4' length of ½" black steel pipe for an axle through which I ran the 5/8" threaded rod (yes, it fit.)
Time to finish the project. Built an access door to the run using 1x4s, then closed it all in with 1" chicken wire. (I picked up a roll of 24"w x 50' length of material from the home improvement store for $20.00.) Finishing touches include a rope and pulley lift mechanism for the coop door, and a ramp. I used some recycled PVC boards (tongue and groove) for the coop floor, and a 2x2 roost. If this is not large enough I will replace it with a 2x4. I want my hens to be comfortable!

So, here is a recap of the costs:
Framing lumber: $60.00
Hinges: $4.00
Fence boards (coop walls): $30.00
Metal Roof: $25.00
Latch for run door: $4.50
Angle and threaded rod: $21.00
Chicken Wire: $20.00

Total: $164.50

I showed the finished coop to my neighbor, and he shared with me four of his 16 week old hens, and a feeder and waterer. Looks like we will be getting eggs sooner than we thought!!
I could use some help identifying the breed of my girls. One is white with a little grey and feathered feet. The other three are alike, brown and white.

Pictures of the finished project:


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## kafelayrampton (Jul 17, 2013)

Its really an attractive design that can really attract anybody who knows the art of making any kind of wood like I build a new coop for my chicks from the very old stuff that was of no use till I refurbish it to a coop and it look like this


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## Bee (Jun 20, 2013)

Looks like some Isa Browns, maybe? And the white/grey one looks like a Splash Cochin. 

Oh, yes! You will get EGGS, with a capital E. 

Nice looking build!! Great ventilation on the coop,lots of light and air...always highly recommended! 

You might want to move from plain chicken wire to a sturdier and smaller welded wire fencing on the run, though, if you live where you may have predation.


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