# Diy cooler bator version 3



## powderhogg01

For those of you who followed my last thread on my diy incubator made from a styrofoam cooler. I had several issues come up, likely leading to my unsuccessful hatch. 
I have also moved my thermostat away from the light and added a but of tin around it to help get a more accurate reading.







I removed my flimsy screen and added a sturdy plastic light diffuser to act as the holding platform. 







The first time around I tossed together the incubator according to ibcubator warehouse suggestions. I used a cheap thermometer, and had 0 success. 
With 3 different types of thermometers in the bator at this time, a average temp is easier to achieve. 
I did a little experiment and found the thermometers were reading slightly off due to light radiation, so I added light shields to block the light from the upper platform.







I also had an issue with the bulb burning out on me, I took Jim's advice and wired a second light for the system, I am going to wait to place a bulb in there until I can source another fan for that side.







I placed the fans so they are blowing from the side of the cooler over the light and into the middle of the bator.







I added two large mason jars with water to act as heat sinks and to help keep the temps a little more stable.







The final adjustment made was for te humidity. I have some small dishes graduating in size. If I need more humidity I add more water until the dish flows over into the next larger dish.







So there she is only a slight but if fine tuning to get it fully dialed in. 
Hoping that my next batch is a bit better.


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## powderhogg01

My apologies for the double pictures.. I typed this from my iPhone which has a broken screen and it's hard to see what all I type and what pictures get uploaded.


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## robin416

You are one stubborn human.  If this doesn't work then I don't know why it went wrong. It should work. I really don't see any reason why it wouldn't.

One modification is going to be needed though, the diffuser. When the chicks hatch they will need a finer mesh to move around on, the holes in the diffuser are much too big. So, keep that in mind.

Like the idea of the jars filled with water, that was a great idea.


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## powderhogg01

Stubborn and hard working as an ox. That's what my pops says anyways.. Haha. 
I like to experiment and build things, it keeps me busy. But more so I hate defeat, and I will keep trying until I am successful. 
Once I go to lockdown, I have a as metal screen, almost like hardware cloth that I will place over the plastic diffuser. It simply has not been cut to fit yet. 
I found the GFCI issue I encountered last time was due to lazy wiring, I have fixed that, by properly soldering the wires and then capping with electric connectors. All if the wire connections are not outside the incubator keeping them from the humidity within.


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## robin416

I thought there was a reason that circuit popped. Glad you were able to isolate it. Almost every time I had one pop it was due to moisture which is the reason I asked before.

I get stubborn and not willing to give up. The challenge of ferreting out where the problem is and how to fix it. Drives my husband nuts. 

Glad you saw that too. Can you imagine newly hatched chicks dealing with those big holes? When you do the mesh either tack it or have it curl down over the edges. I had chicks get caught on the edge of the small hardware cloth grid in the GQF and had to tack it flat.


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## powderhogg01

As if now the ambient temps are around 101. I placed a temp probe inside a water weasel and it's reading 96. 
I feel as though the thermostat needs to be lower, closer to the heat source then what I have it at now.


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## robin416

I need to think on that a while. If its struggling to keep the temp at egg level then you might need to adjust it. How many fans are you using? And where is it or they located? If you look at most bators the fan is located at the heat source. 

The weasel will take time to come to the surrounding temp. The great thing about those is that it gives you a better read on the temp inside of the egg. But I guess you knew that since you're giving it a try.


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## powderhogg01

There is one fan currently blowing directly over the one light bulb. Once I get a second fan, it will go in te opposite corner, blowing directly over the light bulb. 
The bator has been running all day and the temp in the weasel is still at 96. Steady, where as the ambient temp of the cooler has been as low as 95 and as high as 106. 
I moved my bimetal thermostat closer to the light bulb level. I should have the second fan plugged in and functioning tomorrow, both bulbs will be running at that time


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## robin416

Depending the accuracy of the probe thermo you're using, then that is the temp you would find inside of the egg. Having the highs and lows is pretty common with forced air incubators. And the average from low temp to high should be the inside temp of the eggs.


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## powderhogg01

And the cooler is not the most thermally insulated. I moved the thermo a bit lower, dropped 2 degrees of fluctuation. 
By the morning I will have a better picture of what adjustments are needed


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## Jim

Hope you get it worked out well! Mine only has one fan, but I built it out of an oak cabinet that I insulated. Just make sure the light bulbs arnt so strong the "cook" the eggs. I have two 75 watt, but my bator may be bigger or smaller.


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## powderhogg01

The bulbs being used are 40w incandescent. 
I am under the impression the probe being used is as good as the rest of the thermometers. I think that based on when the prob is next to the thermometer it reads the same temp.
With that would I be better to adjust the temps up until the water weasel is at 99.5, or just try to keep the ambient temps at 99.5


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## Jim

For mine, I just have a $10 Walmart thermometer that measures humidity. On my rack where the eggs sit prior to lockdown, I keep a pretty good 99.5, but a shelf lower where some go for hatching, is readers a degree or two lower. I uses a wafer thermostat and normally get 80% or greater hatch when I exclude any infertile eggs. I usually set 82 at a time, and hatch my own, plus others at times I pick up locally, or get shipped in.


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## powderhogg01

Any chance you have a picture of how your thermostat is set up?


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## powderhogg01

Any chance you have a picture of how your thermostat is set up?


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## powderhogg01

Things stabilized over night, there is a cool spot, but that will go away once the second light bulb can be screwed in. 
I have an instant read thermometer for cooking candies and such, it is calibrated for the altitude I live at and is within .2 degrees of true. 
It was reading 99.8, which is pretty close to what I'm looking for. 
All my other thermometers in the cooler back up the instant read with temps from 99.3 up to 101. Just how's how different the thermometers can be.


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## Jim

I looked and don't have a pic. I have eggs in cooking, so, can't open it.


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## powderhogg01

Thanks for looking. I think it's good to go. Temps vary slightly, but as I see it, a 3 degree fluctuation is not too bad. And I am thinking once the 2nd bulb and fan go in that it will steady out even more..
99-102 is about where it's at now, with one cold spot where the 2bd bulb and fan are going.


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## Jim

Get that second in and do some testing quick, those eggs will be there by Thursday.


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## powderhogg01

Got the second light installed as well as a small fan to move air over the second bulb. Temps are stable and the lights are rarely on now, where before the light was on more then off. 
Things are stable and the bator has eggs in it. I'm eggcited for this one, it feels promising.


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## minmin1258

Good luck with it! How many eggs did you put in? I'm going t watch your posts closely. Using you as an "egg"-zample (lol) of a home how to! Thx


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## powderhogg01

There are 14 eggs which jim sent for me to try out. 
They all arrived in great shape, so hopefully things go well.


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## Jim

Hope ya get a good hatch! Can't wait to see what hatches!


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## minmin1258

I think my first hatch didn't go well because I didn't let the eggs "rest" when they arrived, I put them directly into the incubator. I also didn't have the humidity correct. So I'm probably at fault for their not hatching. But I feel so bad for losing 39 chicks/eggs that I don't think I want to try eggs again. I hav better luck with chicks. The 15 I gave my friend after Christmas are getting so big! They are beautiful! I'll get pictures soon.


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## Jim

Plenty of hens (live or electric) don't get the first batch right. I say, try again!


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## robin416

Heck, I knew someone called the egg killer because she failed again and again for several years. The first time there was success there was one heck of a celebration.


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## minmin1258

Hmmm ok ok I'll try again, but not til Spring! It's so cold right now and winter is supposed to b hard this year so I'll not risk a power failure when it's this cold! Thx for ur support and confidence...lol. Don't know if I want that nickname tho. : )


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## powderhogg01

So far so good. I have positive signs of development in 8 of 13 eggs.


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## minmin1258

Good job!!!


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## powderhogg01

First issue. When I went to work the bator was sitting at 99.5 as it has for the last week. When I got home it was at 104. The thermostat somehow got off its hook and was way down near the water dish. 
Hopefully it wasn't like that much more then a few hours and everything is still good and not cooked.


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## robin416

Are you still using the weasel? If you are, what did it say? Its probably a good idea to candle tomorrow once everything has reached temp.


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## powderhogg01

It read the same 104... The hovabator has been running for 2 days at 99.5-100, so I put them in there until the other bator stabilizes back out. This coolerbator will work, not sure what caused the thermostat to come loose now, but hopefully it won't effect things too much.


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## robin416

I can't type what I'm thinking.


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## Jim

Oh no! Something people also do that effects hatch, candeling! I only candle when I go to lockdown, the more you open it, the more you risk temp and humidity changes. The only reason I candle at lockdown, I incubate 82 eggs at a time, I don't really have space to hatch all 82, so I candle and remove any that stopped, or weren't fertile.


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## powderhogg01

I plan to candle them in a few days to see if the ones which showed promise look alive or dead.


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## Jim

We are now on lockdown, 82 in, 74 look good. But, 13 were marans eggs I had shipped in, and they are so dark, I can't see inside any of those...I had 3 lavender in there, and none seemed developed, strange after my last round with those 3 out of 3 hatched.


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## robin416

When you're hatching that many at a time I can see why you wouldn't candle more than necessary. When just a few eggs are involved it really doesn't disturb the hatch. Believe me, I've been forced to do it a few times.


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## Jim

I do know, when my hens do the hatching, they don't candle, but they do get up once a day to eat and do their business. . I guess it is about the same.


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## minmin1258

Robin I posted on another thread an issue I have, need ur advise...please!


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## minmin1258

The thread is "it's Cold" thx ya'll!


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## powderhogg01

I am going to candle a few eggs which I know were good ,as of a few days ago, tonight. I was wondering if there is a way to tell that the eggs are dead, other then a lack of development


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## robin416

Lack of movement. Even half developed you should be able to see some sort of movement in the egg. 

If you're not sure, mark the egg as questionable and just put it back. Its better to leave a maybe and have it be a dud then to toss one that might have hatched.


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## powderhogg01

Tomorrow will mark the one week point.


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## robin416

Would you feel more confident if you waited a couple more days? There is no real reason why you have to check them now. A couple of days will give you a very good picture on what is happening.


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## powderhogg01

I checked a few and a few that were good look to have what I assume is a blood ring. The rest seem to be progressing, with more veins then I remember before. 
Hopefully things will go well and these peeps can develop and hatch.







There were only two or three like this.


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## minmin1258

Ok please forgive my naiveté' but that looks like it's developing. Doesn't it? What are you referring to as a blood ring?


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## powderhogg01

The ring in the picture goes all the way around te egg and there is not much spider veins, where the others have spider veins developing


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## minmin1258

Oh... Ok I understand now. Thank you.


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## robin416

That is the one thing that is instantly recognizable even if you've never seen one.

I read that the blood ring is actually bacteria growing and the light shining through makes it look red. I was never brave enough to open one to see if that was true.

The rest of what you see sounds positive. Now we'll all be waiting to hear what the outcome is.


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## powderhogg01

There are 7 eggs which are developing nicely. NOW I see what was meant by movement.


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## robin416

LOL. Didn't drop any did you? I almost did the first time I saw it.


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## powderhogg01

I had them testing on the candler so I knew it was not me moving them.


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## Jim

Awesome! The buffs or a mix?


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## powderhogg01

A mix of all. Hopefully I get at least one or two or each


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## Jim

That is great to hear, flad you didn't cook them all with the spike.


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## powderhogg01

Should I remove the eggs which stopped developing? I kept them in the bator for thermal mass, but got to thinking that could prove bad due to bacteria?


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## Jim

Since I don't candle, mine by default stay in, I only remove if I see any oozing, only had 2 in the last year.


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## robin416

Pull the blood ring one for sure. Are you saying no development or development and quit? No development can probably stay without a problem, those that started and die are the eggs that become leakers and exploders.


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## powderhogg01

Thanks for the great advice guys. Reading in books and sites helps but hearing first hand from people who have been hatching a while really helps me out. 
Excited to see things happen


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## minmin1258

I had one explode when I tried to hatch them in my 'bator. It wasn't pretty! Oh my Heavens the ODOR!!! Yuk!!!! Definitely take the "stopped" ones OUT! An egg explosion is nothing you want to experience! I'm nauseous just thinking about the odor and mess!


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## robin416

I've had it happen with eggs I've missed. But that is out in the coop, I can not fathom how bad it would be if it happened inside the house. Gag is right. Its making me twitch just thinking about it.


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## Jim

Lol, I have had a weeping one, got it out QUICK!


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## kessy09

Ugh. I had that happen once. I was hatching Rhode Island Reds. 80 of them in the incubator and at first I just thought humidity was too high as I was seeing droplets of "dew" on the outside of one egg. Boy, when I opened that incubator I have never smelled something so bad. And in ten years as a vet tech I have smelled some very bad things! I cracked it open outside as I was curious. Bad idea. Thick, black, oily gunk. If I think hard I can still smell it. Gross.


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## minmin1258

My stomach just turned flip flops!!!! That smell stuck in my nostrils for weeks! Yukko!!! Lol. I bet you'll never open another one of those nasty things!


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## powderhogg01

The 7 eggs which survived the heat up issue are a day away from going into the hatcher. 
I can't wait to see what little joys Jim has sent me. Also I have got to say that Jim's eggs arrived way better then the other 2 places I have gotten eggs in from. I appreciate that


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## Jim

Very excited to see what hatches for ya!


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## Jim

Is tomorrow or the next day set for hatching?


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## powderhogg01

The next. Today marks day 2 of lockdown. Temps are stable, humidity a constant. I can't wait.


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## Jim

Better have some pics!


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## powderhogg01

Geeze I just wish they could pop out or peep or somethin... Man.. Worst parts the wait


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## Jim

Lol, yes it is, no pips yet?


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## powderhogg01

Not that I can see


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## Jim

Hoping to hear good news this morning.


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## powderhogg01

As of 7:30 there were no pips visible. I wanted to open the bator and check things out, but opted to leave it closed up. 
Ahh the anticipation is killing me.


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## Jim

Fingers and toes crossed! Don't even give up if it is day 22 or 23.


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## powderhogg01

I will not give up on them. They were moving on lockdown, the bator stayed constant. No reason for a bad hatch as far as I can tell


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## Jim

Good to hear. Humidity good?


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## powderhogg01

Looks here. A surprise for my hard days work


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## Jim

Is that a pip on a Lavender? You will love those, the hen and roo each came from The Fancy Chick, her English Lavender a orpingtons! They weren't cheap.


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## powderhogg01

It is indeed. I am so excited and glad you were able to help me out


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## Jim

The feeling is mutual. Knowing I can ship successfully is great!


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## powderhogg01

I've gotten 3 batches shipped in, jim, your eggs were the cleanest, and by far the best method of packing. 







The lava far has zipped, and is just catching her breath before the final push. The second pip is chirping and has a decent sized hole, I can see its little head poking up through it every once in a while. 
Can't wait to get home from work to hatched and dry chicks!!


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## Jim

Awesome! So happy for you! If you are on Facebook, feel free to give me a "review or recommendation". Jim's Roost. .


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## Olof

Jim. How much for 3 lavender eggs? I'm in Oklahoma.


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## powderhogg01

Jeepers I wish I was not working. Can't wait to see fluffy chicks


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## Jim

Olof, I sell lavenders for $35 a doz, plus shipping in flat rate box, those could probably go in smaller box, but first, I have to get my roo back to health to make sure they are fertile. He sprang a leg, from the best I can tell. I have some of her eggs right now, so, if you wanted now, I could ship on Monday, they are the last of fertile ones. Looks like the flat rate shipping is about $13. In have 4 of her eggs right now, so, $9 for the 3 eggs, plus one extra and shipping would be $22.00. You would want to put them in incubator no more than a day after getting them, as one will be 7 days old on Monday. Let me know if you want to. Feel free to email me at [email protected]


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## LittleWings

Congratulations!


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## Jim

Also, remember, hatch rate on shipped eggs is good if you get 40% rate. If you decide you want a full dozen, I have some from my BBS pen I also sell for 35 a doz, shipping $17, but could do the 4 lav, and the rest BBS. My ble Orp roo and one hen are from The Fancy Chicks imported Orpingtons, my three splash are nice and big, I just don't know their origin.


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## powderhogg01

When should I move the chicks into the brooder? It will be ok to open the bator to move chicks if I am quick about it?


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## kessy09

powderhogg01 said:


> When should I move the chicks into the brooder? It will be ok to open the bator to move chicks if I am quick about it?


I wouldn't open that incubator until five days after lockdown (so day 23) or all chicks have hatched-whichever comes first. Chicks can survive off their yolk sac for three days after hatching. A sudden decrease in humidity will shrink wrap those chicks that haven't hatched yet very fast. When I first started hatching I was also eager and lost many chicks  and I was soooo quick opening and closing the incubator. Once I opened the eggs that hadn't hatched I saw fully developed chicks-some that had even pipped internally. But the membrane was so dry and suffocated them. It's up to you but I wouldn't. Since I stopped opening the bator at the end to remove chicks I've had much more successful hatches and have had to intervene and "help" much less.


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## powderhogg01

That makes sense. 1 chick is out and mostly dry, seems to be walking around ok, the second chick which pipped, seemed to open a hole in the egg rather then zip like the first one. Is this faulty common, I can see the chick, every now and then it musters some strength and breaks off a little more egg.


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## Jim

Sounds normal to me. Hang tuff


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## powderhogg01

Still just the 2 pipped and out. 8 pm marks the 4th day on lockdown. According to the fresh batteries in the spot check the temps was low throughout the entire process. Expecting a slight delay.


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## kessy09

I was once six days past lockdown and we had had a power outage during that time for three hours. All chicks had pipped except one so I thought it was dead. I listened and heard that tapping on the inside. I ended up having to hatch that one myself as 12 hours later it hadn't pipped on its own yet and was so dry from being out for so long but it's fine now (10 months old) and been laying for four months.


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## powderhogg01

According to the fresh batteries in my brinsea spot check, my temps were low in the hatcher by at least 2 full degrees. 
I live in a rural area and finding batteries for the spot cheek was not that easy. 
I increased the temps slightly, hoping that I did not catch this too late for the rest of my batch.


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## Jim

I use a $10 Walmart indoor thermometer/humidity monitor inside my incubator to tell me the temps, and in a homemade bator, still get 89+% hatch rates. Hopefully the 1-2 degrees won't be too bad for ya.


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## powderhogg01

Do you have a build thread anywhere on your bator?


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## Jim

I think I did over a year ago, if not, I am happy to send my info to ya.


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## powderhogg01

I would take it. I like comparing ideas and results


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## HodgesParadise

I would also be interested to see that!


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## powderhogg01

Second peep has cleared the shell. It does not look nearly as ...whole as the other chick. That is to say it looks a bit messier.







The first peep I think helped this one out, as it's pecking up the shell pieces.


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## powderhogg01

Because of where the peep is I can't get a picture, but it looks like the second peep is stuck to the shell by what looks like chicken poo. 
This one really does not seem as active, I'm hoping for the best but not expecting too much. 
I will try to post a picture in the morning, tomorrow evening marks day 5.
By evening time I will move the one strong chick into the brooder and maybe give the rest another day?


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## Jim

If they are both dry, I would just move both at the same time. I do have some that hatch messy, the shell and any dried goo will fall off over about a week, as long as it does not prevent them from eating and such. The other will probably peck at the shell stuck to it.


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## powderhogg01

When I went in this morning it looked like the peep has died. When I went to scoop it out it opened its eyes. It has somehow managed to get stuck to the screen I used to set the eggs on. I gently removed the peep from the screen, and she seems to be walking around.. But she isa mess. A dry caked on mess. How can I clean this lil tacker off so she can fluffed out.







It is really messy, has pieces of the egg membrane stuck and dry to her. 







It's holding one wing in a strange position and seems to be making the poor little thing have trouble moving around.


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## LittleWings

I have had them like that and just washed it off under warm running water. It should come off when it gets wet. Just dry it off quickly and get it under the light. 
Beautiful color!


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## powderhogg01

Ahh, so fragile. I used a damp cloth as cleaned the bulk of the mess off. Already she is standing a bit better. 
I hope this girl pulls through, there are bits of blood in her shell pieces and that did not happen with the first. 
Because of this shrink wrap is it safe to assume next batch needs more humidity? And if so, throughout the whole process or just the hatch 
Thanks for all the help, I will get this hatching thing down.


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## powderhogg01

I got the sink running a gentle flow of slightly warmer then luke warm. Held the chick, being careful of the head, under the water for a few minutes. 
Either she liked the rinse or knew I was trying to help, as she really eased up and just let me clean up. 
I dried her as best as I could using paper towels and toilet paper, and she is back in the bator. 
I noticed the lavandar chick was pecking so I put a partition in the bator. Non of the other eggs show pips. I am thinking about candling to see if there are internal pips.

As for the diy coolerbator, I have found that it did need a few adjustments. After tonight when it's empty I will give it a solid cleaning, and I have found that I need to relocate the thermostat so it is closer to one of the light bulbs, as it fluctuates I'm temp, between the safe zone, but I know I can get a more solid state. 
Next is the location of the lights. , I have them low, even with 2 fans I am having heat spots, so I am going to move the lights to the top of the bator. Now that I have an egg turner I do not need to open the bator at all, this will give me a more stable temp in the lower portion of the bator. 
Next issue may be airflow. I got it to hold humidity rather well, however... I do not feel as though the bator had the optimum fee hair intake. To remedy this I will take a note from the hovabator, and add a vent hole behind one of my fans so the fan is pulling in fresh air, blowing over the hot bulbs, then down into the incubation chamber. 
With 2 of 14 hatching in the end I am calling this hatch a failure. I'm glad the two that hatched were special birds from jimsroost.
I will update on the struggling chick and definitely get some pictures of them in the brooder this evening.


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## powderhogg01

These are both after the first rinse. She feels dry, but still a bit crunchy and not soft and fluffy. 
May give her one more rinse in an hour or two if she does not appear to be fluffing out. 
I will say this, much more active after the rinse off. Lots of walking, stretching, and tons if cheeping


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## LittleWings

I'm glad you got two to hatch. Good luck with them. 
I am going to try weighing the eggs during the first 18 days and see how that works out on my next set. The eggs need to lose 13% of their weight by day 18. You check it every 4 or 5 days to see how much weight they have lost and adjust humidity accordingly.


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## Jim

I am bit sure what you had humidity at, but I do forced air, keep it at 40-50% until lockdown! then 70-80%. The as long as the little one is moving around, I would say to not rinse any more off, chancing getting it too warm or cool. It will come off over the next few days to a week. Glad you got two, especially after your temp spikes and everything else!


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## Jim

Oh, were they both lavender that hatched, or was one a BBS.


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## powderhogg01

I think they are both lavandars. I will get some pics of them in good light in a few hours. After the second rinse I used a soft tooth brush to gently clean the feathers. I then used the furnace air, coming from the duct to help blow dry them both out. 
Both are now good and dry and in the bator, one even pooped.


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## powderhogg01

Here's some pics of the peeps in the brooder. I have the food and water at the cooler end, some thing to climb on to get closer to the light if needed. 
The first hatcher is quite active and exploring the brooder. The second one is less active, but standing and moving a little here and there. Staying under the light for the most part.


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## Jim

Woo hoo! If you have the shell pieces, I labeled them with what was in them at the top, I know one was lav, I saw that in the pic, the other could be lav, splash, or blue! It for sure is not a buff!


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## powderhogg01

Not that you can tell in the pic but the lav has a standard comb and the second one looks more like a pea come to me. Pretty early I realize but other then size that's the only difference I can see. 
Eggopsy revealed 3 internal pips, the air camber was way too big and definitely made their escape no fun. 
Next batch will be better


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## Jim

Didn't I only send Buff (bo) BBS (sp) and lavender(lav)? Those would all be orpington, no p-combs in them, unless some eggs were marked EE,


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## Jim

My orpington a all seem to have grey to blueish legs and at least one whiteish toe.


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## minmin1258

How are the bitties doing this morning?


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## powderhogg01

I watched both of them eat and drink. The first hatched, the for sure lavandar, is very active jumping all over, runs around, especially if it sees me near te brooder. 
The second one is a bit slower, walking around, eating and drinking, staying near the light for the most part. 
Both have fiddled up well.


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## powderhogg01

I made a few amendments to the coolerbator. 
I placed the two lights at the same end of the bator,






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I made the thermostats so it could be physically attached to the wall and adjusted from the outside. I also set it so that it is only a few inches from the bulbs.













It had turned out that my second fan( which was rather old)
Quit spinning, so for now only one fan, second fan will be here Thursday. But I positioned the fans to blow air over the bulbs and past my mason jars. The jars help block the direct hot air from hitting eggs, but it also acts as a heat sink.






I also added two intake tubes. I used plastic straws to insure that the fresh air always flows. These tubes are diRectly behind the fans, so the fans pull the fresh air in through them.







I changed my humidity tray, adding a sponge and placing it over the top of the lights, it holds steady at 50% with the sponge and a small amount of the lower tray, then to establish 70% I fill the tray to the second sponges.







The next fix I made was tripling the thickness of the foam. I wrapped the cooler in insulation foam, all the way around the bottom. This is leading to a much better heat retention.







As of right now the light turns on at 99.3 and off at 99.8. 
Way better then before. Also the light kicks on and off quickly and more often. I think I got it figured out. A few days testing and I can test it with a fresh batch.


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## Jim

Sounds like some great improvements. I still need to pull together a thread and list on mine.


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## Jim

I found my incubator thread "New to Incubating", added a note, so it should pop up in the recent timeline. There are pics and near the last page a supply list I put together after building. Have not really changed much from the original design.


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