# New hatch has a giant hemmorroid?...or prolapsed something...



## GrammyJean

I've had hatching problems, such as pipped chicks dying and some dead in the un-pipped egg, and a few that hatched with an unabsorbed yolk that didn't make it.... the last time I incubated eggs.

This is the first chick from this incubation, and the chick hatched fully by itself, with the yolk fully absorbed. However it seems to have a fleshy 'something' hanging out of it's butt! It's shrinking a bit, as it's smaller today, but still doesn't belong there! Yesterday it oozed some green and green/black stuff... that has stopped, but now it has a 'milky' looking ...bubble..or small ball.. on the end of it. 

The poor thing is listless for it's 2nd day... not as active as it should be, and I'm wondering what in the world is wrong with it?


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## robin416

It sounds like its got a bacterial something going on. 

I'm going to do some digging. If all is right with the flock and your incubation techniques this shouldn't be happening.


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## robin416

This is from MS University: Pullorum Disease

Pullorum disease is an acute or chronic infectious, bacterial disease affecting primarily chickens and turkeys, but most domestic and wild fowl can be infected.

The cause is a bacterium named Salmonella pullorum. This organism is primarily egg transmitted, but transmission may occur by other means such as:

Infected hen to egg, egg to chick, or chick to chick in incubator, chick box, brooder, or house. Survivors become infected breeders (cycle begins again),
Mechanical transmission (carried around on clothes, shoes or equipment),
Carrier birds (apparently healthy birds shed the disease organisms),
Contaminated premises (from previous outbreaks).
Disease organisms may enter the bird through the respiratory (as in the incubator) or digestive systems. Most outbreaks of acute pullorum disease in chickens or turkeys result from infection while in the hatchery.

Pullorum disease is highly fatal to young chicks or poults, but mature birds are more resistant. Young birds may die soon after hatching without exhibiting any observable signs. Most acute outbreaks occur in birds that are under three weeks of age. Mortality in such outbreaks may approach ninety percent if untreated. Survivors are usually stunted and unthrifty. Infection in young birds may be indicated by droopiness, ruffled feathers, a chilled appearance with birds huddling near a source of heat, labored breathing, and presence of a white diarrhea with a "pasted-down" appearance around the vent. The white diarrhea symptom instigated the term "bacillary white diarrhea" that was commonly associated with this disease at one time. Gross lesions may be lacking in some adult birds.

Diagnosis in young birds is made by isolating the causative organism in the laboratory. In older birds, blood testing may indicate an infection but a positive diagnosis depends upon isolation and identification of the organism by laboratory procedures.

Complete eradication is the only sound way to prevent pullorum disease. All hatchery supply flocks should be tested and only pullorum-free flocks used as a source of hatching eggs. Purchase chicks or poults from hatcheries that are officially recognized as "Pullorum Clean" by National Poultry Improvement Plan representatives in your state.

Treatment primarily is a salvage operation and does not prevent birds from becoming carriers. Consequently, do not keep recovered flocks for egg production. Among the drugs used to treat pullorum disease are furazolidone, gentamycin sulfate, and sulfa drugs (sulfadimethoxine, sulfamethazine, and sulfamerazine).

When you mentioned earlier you had something going on with the hatched chick my thinking went straight to the breeding flock and something going on. 

Contact your state vet, tell him/her what is going on with your hatches. Ask them how and how much it would be to have someone come out and test your flock.


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## GrammyJean

My entire flock is healthy and happy! No problems whatsoever! IF that's what this chick has got, it doesn't explain the 'prolapsed' vent? ..or whatever it is.... it's part of the bird that's hanging out it's butt. I've never seen anything like it before.

If that's what this chick has got, (the prolapsed part notwithstanding), it likely came from the egg that was 'sweating' yellow goo. I took it out of the incubator, but it may have spread some bacteria before I did that.

I'll be curious to see if the 2nd chick is healthy once it gets out of it's egg.... has a hole the size of a silver dollar...although oval shaped... and has not broken out yet... but it's cheeping. hehe

I heard some "tapping" from one of the other eggs last night, but not today. Out of 26 eggs, it's very poor showing for hatches.  Probably a lot of them weren't fertilized.... I DO candle, but can see nothing in the blue and olive eggs. The brown ones I can see into quite nicely. I'm trying to hatch about 90% blue and olive eggs this time...


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## nj2wv

Sounds to me like it is an abdominal hernia from where the chick is attached to the egg ( umbilical cord ? ) . It is caused by a chick using too much force to get out of the egg. Separate it from the others because they will peck the chick and it will bleed. It may not survive.


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## robin416

She says its hanging out of the behind, not abdominal. 

Jean, its not a bad thing to know whether or not your flock is harboring something. While I was breeding and selling my birds were tested every year, Pullorum was one of the diseases typically tested for. And its one of those that can be there but does not show any signs in an adult flock but is transmitted to the egg.

If the peep has a bacterial infection in the GI tract then it would show up like you're seeing. Too much has gone in the wrong direction for your hatching. I would even suggest sending eggs to someone you know that has incubated successfully in the past to see what their outcome is.


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## GrammyJean

Hmm. Well, sending eggs to someone else to hatch is a good idea.... you want some eggs?

My problem with the testing is that I have zero money. I live (or try to live) on disability and there's never enough to get to the end of the month, much less any extra. 

I got an answer on another forum, from someone who says she had the same problem with one of her chicks... she took it to the vet, and he put in a dissolving stitch that held it in and it stayed. I don't know how I can afford that either. 

I responded asking how much that cost.... and whether he put it to sleep when he did it.... 
I wonder if something like those little "butterfly" bandages would work... they're tiny... if I could get them to stick....  oh, dear....
poor little chick.... he's actually becoming much more active... walking all over the incubator and cheeping loudly... knocking all the eggs into each other.... I'm going to take him out of there and put into a brooder.

I'm wondering if I should make up a separate brooder for the other chick... assuming it gets out of the egg... in case it is some kind of infection...


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## GrammyJean

I checked a link with a picture of another chick with the same problem.... it's nearly the same, but my chick's is not nearly as big. It seems to be shrinking a little on it's own, so I'll wait until tomorrow to try the hemorrhoid cream that was recommended by others ... 

I found that link at the very bottom of this page under "similar" links.
I hope it works. I'll keep you posted.


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## nj2wv

You can try the bandage. I hope it works. I never have tried that. I may try that the next time I have one with a hernia. It doesn't happen often. we are also trying to live on a disability income and I know money for a vet is not in the picture. The ones I have had with that problem never survived.


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## GrammyJean

The 2nd chick to hatch seems to be perfectly healthy, walking all over the incubator and cheeping constantly.
The 1st chick still has it's "prolapsed" vent or cloaca or whatever it is, but it is steadily becoming smaller and really does not seem as fleshy as it once did..... He's walking around like the other chick... although they seem to keep their distance from each other. I'm going to try the hemorrhoid cream later today.

No other eggs hatched, although I'm not surprised.... they were some I was "saving" to put in incubator, but I didn't know they were to be kept 'warmish'... I've now read they should be kept at 80 to 90 degrees while waiting.... Mine were indoor, and although I kept them away from drafts, the temp in here is set at 75.... so I guess they weren't kept warm enough while waiting to go into incubator.

I think I'm done hatching for this season... by the time another batch hatched, it would be getting cold, and I'm brooding them outside due to my allergies. I think it would be too difficult to keep the temp in the brooder high enough with cold weather and Texas winds, so I'll try again in the spring.

I'll let you know whether the Preparation H works or not.


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## hildar

GrammyJean said:


> The 2nd chick to hatch seems to be perfectly healthy, walking all over the incubator and cheeping constantly.
> The 1st chick still has it's "prolapsed" vent or cloaca or whatever it is, but it is steadily becoming smaller and really does not seem as fleshy as it once did..... He's walking around like the other chick... although they seem to keep their distance from each other. I'm going to try the hemorrhoid cream later today.
> 
> No other eggs hatched, although I'm not surprised.... they were some I was "saving" to put in incubator, but I didn't know they were to be kept 'warmish'... I've now read they should be kept at 80 to 90 degrees while waiting.... Mine were indoor, and although I kept them away from drafts, the temp in here is set at 75.... so I guess they weren't kept warm enough while waiting to go into incubator.
> 
> I think I'm done hatching for this season... by the time another batch hatched, it would be getting cold, and I'm brooding them outside due to my allergies. I think it would be too difficult to keep the temp in the brooder high enough with cold weather and Texas winds, so I'll try again in the spring.
> 
> I'll let you know whether the Preparation H works or not.


Lets hope it works for you. As for the temps. Makes me wonder after reading that now if that is why last year none of my BO hatched out. The lady I bought them from told me to place them in the fridge for up to 2 weeks. I called her and talked to her the day before I went in the hospital for heart surgery, I was so excited, that when I got out of the hospital I would be putting them in, and watching them daily as they grew inside their eggs. well none ever hatched out. Now we can see why. Makes me now wonder how many so called breeders know what they are really talking about.


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## Fiere

80-90* is darn near incubation temps. You do not want to keep your eggs almost incubating while waiting to go in the incubator as it will mess with the embryo. The eggs should stay in a point of suspended animation until you are ready to incubate them. As such, they should be kept cool, but not cold. Putting them in the fridge would successfully kill the blastoderm in a few hours. Everyone has a preference for storing eggs but ~60 is darn perfect. Even 50 or 70 so long as the temp is consistent and not warm nor cold - eggs should be cool.
I keep mine on the counter, or in the cupboard (so at room temp) for no more than 7-10 days, in a carton, pointy side down. Every day I prop one end up on the carton, alternating which end is elevated each day. 

I'm glad the chick is doing better. Sometimes they're born with a little abnormality. A lot of times that is caused by a issue in incubation. I had one this year, my temps were running too low and everyone was mushy. One of the few successful hatches had what you were describing, it went away on it own, I put antibacterial ointment on it to lubricate it and keep infection away, that's it. It's happy as a lark now.


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## GrammyJean

Well, today it seems to be getting kind of hard... the Prep H isn't keeping it softened, although it may have shrunken a bit more. He is pooping, though, so I think that's a good sign... 

The 2nd chick still seems to be more active than the one with the sick butt, though.... and may be a little bit bigger than the 1st one now....
*sigh*


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## nj2wv

That's good it is doing better. Just make sure the other chick doesn't pick on sore area.


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