# New to hatching



## BamaChicks (Mar 24, 2014)

We are new to raising chickens. I got 6 fertilized eggs for a friend who wanted to incubate them but now due to unforeseen circumstances can't. So my boyfriend is getting his incubator and we are going to try to hatch the eggs. We are going to add 2 eggs that are hens (whom we just got yesterday laid today- they are fertilized). Can someone give me some pointers as this is all new to me. Thanks!!!



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## robin416 (Sep 8, 2013)

If you're using a still air bator, rotate eggs from the center to the outside to try to keep eggs developing at the same rate. Remember temps in a still air are 101.

Forced air, temps are 99.5 and you can rotate if you want. I'm not 100% certain that even with the fan that temps are even across the bator.

What you use for measuring temps is right up there in importance as the bator itself. Cheap is what you get for accuracy.


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## BamaChicks (Mar 24, 2014)

Thanks! I'm not sure what type it is. My boyfriend is picking it up from his friend that has a hatchery. So, I'm sure it's a more expensive model. We originally had 8 eggs to hatch and were just given an additional 18. Maybe we will get some good chicks from this hatching! I already have people interested in them. Our coop is almost at max capacity. 


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## robin416 (Sep 8, 2013)

Keep us posted.


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## hildar (Oct 3, 2013)

robin416 said:


> If you're using a still air bator, rotate eggs from the center to the outside to try to keep eggs developing at the same rate. Remember temps in a still air are 101.
> 
> Forced air, temps are 99.5 and you can rotate if you want. I'm not 100% certain that even with the fan that temps are even across the bator.
> 
> What you use for measuring temps is right up there in importance as the bator itself. Cheap is what you get for accuracy.


I never knew that about a still bator. I have always run my at 99.5. After reading this I turned it up, just in case. It took me 2 days to get it perfect at 99.5 before I put the eggs in. Now I will have to perfect the 101 lol.


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## robin416 (Sep 8, 2013)

The only reason I can think of for it to be different is that the higher temp for still air is to try to keep the outside eggs developing. You should have noticed that eggs did not hatch when they should have but were a couple of days late.


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## hildar (Oct 3, 2013)

robin416 said:


> The only reason I can think of for it to be different is that the higher temp for still air is to try to keep the outside eggs developing. You should have noticed that eggs did not hatch when they should have but were a couple of days late.


Yes I did notice that last year that they were about 2 days later then they should have been. My old bator was set so I didn't have to mess with it, this one you have to keep messing with it. I also noticed that after you put eggs in it, the heat goes up. I never saw that with my old one I guess because it regulated all of that???? I had to turn the bator down a notch yesterday after putting eggs in it.


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## robin416 (Sep 8, 2013)

I never noticed the increase in heat with any of mine. But then, if the unit was ready to go, I put the eggs in and walked away. 

Those that are not electronically set can be all over the map temp wise. What I did was take three readings of the highest temp and lowest temp. And if they averaged out to 99.5 then I knew it was good to go. It also helped that I had a water weasel and could keep a better eye on actual temp of the eggs with that.


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## hildar (Oct 3, 2013)

Well I have 2 different thermometers the one that came with the incubator, and a new one I got from tractor supply, both are the same temp wise when I put them in. So I took the bigger one out today where the one I used last year I can read better. Next year I want a digital one that will show the temp and humidity. I just keep my wells filled normally for humidity.


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## robin416 (Sep 8, 2013)

Normally? If you're following what the instructions say, it doesn't necessarily mean the humidity is correct. I found that I had to use way more water than they recommended because of the drier air in my house.

But if I left the incubator out in the coop I didn't have to add water at all because the outside humidity was so high.


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## BamaChicks (Mar 24, 2014)

We are putting them in tonight. We set the temp at 99.5 and want to make sure it holds tonight before putting the eggs in. It automatically rotates the eggs. I know typical hatch time is 21 days but I've read to give it to day 30 on some posts. My bf's friend said that if they haven't hatched out by day 23 to throw them away. What is correct 23 or 30 days?



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## BamaChicks (Mar 24, 2014)

We have 7 Ameracaunas, 1 RIR and 18 that are random types he got from his friend. I really hope the Ameracaunas all hatch out and we get a roo. We have 2 hens, 2 bantam pullets and 2 3 wk old pullets- all Ameracaunas. I'd love to have a rooster to add to them. The eggs were given to me by a friend. Our bantam roo is beautiful but we don't know what he is. 


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## hildar (Oct 3, 2013)

My house has dry air so if I can keep it full all the time, it works. The older one had a cup that I could fill and put in it so it did it automatically and when it would get low on water which it never did because I checked it daily, the red light would pop on. But this one that I got last year is smaller and made from Styrofoam, and not at all what I use to be use to doing. I am use to the large metal and glass one. Which reminds me I need to start marking my eggs today so I can add them in there, and check my wells again for water.


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## BamaChicks (Mar 24, 2014)

We now have 27 eggs in the bator. Hopefully new chicks arriving in about 3 weeks!!















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## robin416 (Sep 8, 2013)

Bama, that spirit filled thermo scares me. I cooked a set of eggs trusting one of those. With the turn-X I couldn't use my GQF digital so I was depending on the spirit filled. It was a mistake. Before I hatched again I got a digital reptile unit that measured both temp and humidity. Worked a lot better that time.

hildar, I used the styros for years. It took me a bit to get accustomed to the turn-x but in the end decided the turn-x was the way to go. Bet you find the styro works really well with a little extra attention on your part. That was the biggest difference I found, less having to tend the turn-x than the styro.


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## hildar (Oct 3, 2013)

robin416 said:


> Bama, that spirit filled thermo scares me. I cooked a set of eggs trusting one of those. With the turn-X I couldn't use my GQF digital so I was depending on the spirit filled. It was a mistake. Before I hatched again I got a digital reptile unit that measured both temp and humidity. Worked a lot better that time.
> 
> hildar, I used the styros for years. It took me a bit to get accustomed to the turn-x but in the end decided the turn-x was the way to go. Bet you find the styro works really well with a little extra attention on your part. That was the biggest difference I found, less having to tend the turn-x than the styro.


Last year after my heart surgery I found it to be the most relaxing thing for me to do in the world, turning those eggs in the styro bator. I enjoyed sitting there in my chair turning them.

However this year I am doing something different. I was told to leave eggs in the bottoms of egg cartons rather then laying them out like normal, So this year I am doing it that way with 90% of what I have. The other 10% is laid out like I am use to doing. However I was told a better success rate happens when they are standing in the bottoms of cartons then laying out. So I am trying it this year. We shall see.


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## BamaChicks (Mar 24, 2014)

My son and I candled our eggs tonight. They've been in the incubator since last Saturday morning. In almost all of them you could see some vein formation. A few had a red ring around the yolk so we threw them out. A few have little to no vein development noted. You can see definite yolk and the air sack. Should these be given a few more days. There is one Ameracauna that you can't see yolk or anything. 














This one you could easily see development.

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## robin416 (Sep 8, 2013)

Bama, you never confirmed whether it was still air or forced. If still then the temp is too low.

Yes, give those eggs that appear to be developing some more time. If you are using a still air and have the temps set low and those eggs were on the outside edge they could be a bit delayed. Mark the one that doesn't look like its developing, if you don't see anything next time you candle you know to toss it.

BTW, 30 days? Not even. If all is right you should see hatching begin by day 21. If temps are too low it might start on day 23 and then you would want them to stay in at least another two days.


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## BamaChicks (Mar 24, 2014)

I know it is a Farm Innovators Pro Series Model 4209-40w//20vac. Not sure if it's still or forced air. I do know the instructions said to keep temp at 99.5. We rotated the eggs around in the bator today after candling them. There was a lot of visible veinous development in a good many of the eggs. I still can't figure out how to put water in the bator. There is no slide out at the bottom to put the water in. So, I got some new sponges and wet them and placed them in the bator. Several of the eggs were pretty porous and I've read that they usually don't have good hatching results but I could see some development so I left them alone. 


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## BamaChicks (Mar 24, 2014)

This is the info the website has on the incubator. This one was borrowed since this hatch was a last minute thing. We will be researching and buying our own soon.

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## robin416 (Sep 8, 2013)

See where it says circulated? That's forced air. I'll have to do some digging on the unit because I'm unfamiliar with it.


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## robin416 (Sep 8, 2013)

Is there a plastic tray in the bottom? That's where the water should go. I saw where someone else couldn't see what was going on with the water level so they added a bit of food coloring to the water. Not sure how well it ended up working. If you had a hygrometer in there you would know when to add water.

I also read not to trust the external temp reading. That they are way off.


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## BamaChicks (Mar 24, 2014)

I can't find a plastic tray. I've turned the thing every way except upside down. We've got another thermometer we are using to make sure the temp is at 99.5. The dial on the bator is reading 101. I know ours is accurate as I've checked it against another. The hygrometer is saying 90% but there is no way that that's right. I feel good because I know the chicks are developing but I don't want to lose them when it comes hatching time due to the humidity being off. 


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## BamaChicks (Mar 24, 2014)

I can't wait to get my own so that I will have the directions handy. I wish I would've had more time to read up on hatching before we began this endeavor. But when my boyfriend was given the eggs, I didn't want to let them go to waist. None of our 4 hens that are of laying age are broody. My Silkie who is getting close to laying age likes to sit on an Easter egg- maybe I should've given her a couple. J/k. 


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## robin416 (Sep 8, 2013)

Are you using a wet bulb type for humidity? If you are then it is about 10 degrees too high. Using a wet bulb is one that is hard to wrap you brain around but once you get used to it its about the most accurate. 

If that's the reading on the outside of the unit, I'm not surprised. What I read said the humidity would read high. That the temp is about 5 degrees low with the built in one on the unit. 

Can you ask the people that loaned it to you? It might be different enough that you simply add water to the bottom and that no tray exists for it. But I would make sure its not on something that moisture can hurt. When I still used the styro and had the tray I made sure it was isolated from the wood top I had it sitting on.

For a bird that is not broody that is not normal behavior. Its possible she's trying to pass an egg. She probably won't go broody until she's laid a few of her own eggs.


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## BamaChicks (Mar 24, 2014)

I guess I'll just get my boyfriend to talk to his friend. I have no idea on the bulb type. I know he said his friend never used water in the bator. I'm going to go to TSC tomorrow and get a hygrometer. His friend said he usually has a 50% hatch rate. 
About the Silkie, Sat I found a soft shelled egg with no yolk that was much lighter than our RIRs lay. I wondered if maybe she actually did lay that egg and it was her first bible caught her sitting in nesting boxes since then but I haven't seen another egg that would have been hers. We have 4 hens- 2 RIR and 2 Ameracaunas- so their eggs are easily identified. 
As far as the bator I guess I'm going to leave well enough alone since they seem to be developing. At least until my bf talks some more with the guy who owns it. I was reading up on dry incubating but wasn't sure how that would work when it came time to lockdown. 


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## robin416 (Sep 8, 2013)

Dry incubation can be quite successful as long as the ambient humidity is high enough. I had to use water when incubating in the house, was constantly replacing it. Out in the coop where the air was humid I didn't need water. I did add some water at the end.


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## Nm156 (May 16, 2015)

That be one dirty incubator.


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## chickenqueen (Jan 9, 2016)

You should've thoroughly cleaned that incubator with dish soap and water before putting eggs in.Chicks are tough little critters but are prone to disease and a dirty incubator is not a good way to bring them into the world.It's a warm,moist environment,perfect condition for bacteria to grow.Also,if you want to mark an egg,use a pencil.Ink leeches through the shell and to the chick-not good.Good luck!


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## seminole wind (Aug 22, 2015)

I am always down to like 1 ounce of water to have humidity low. Sometimes my humidity was 30 40% on it's own (Florida). I do like it up to 65-68 % or close as possible the last 3 days.


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## chickenqueen (Jan 9, 2016)

Alright,now I'm collecting eggs to set on the 16th-so they hatch under a waxing moon.I read somewhere that long,pointed eggs usually hatch into roosters and rounded eggs hatch pullets.I'm collecting the round ones and keeping the best 20.I'm going to test that theory-I hope it's true because I have enough roosters.


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## robin416 (Sep 8, 2013)

Those old wife tales just never die. It is not true about one producing one sex only.

We'll be watching to see pics of the new peeps.


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## casportpony (Aug 22, 2015)

I think someone on another forum just posted that all of their round eggs from the most recent hatch are female.


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## robin416 (Sep 8, 2013)

I had very few that ever laid more pointed eggs. The last time I did a big hatch I got 15 boys out of 17 eggs. And if I remember right not a single one was pointed.

It's all about the hen and what she chooses.

And if I could be guaranteed all females I might be tempted to give it a go again.


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## seminole wind (Aug 22, 2015)

I used to have a silkie trio that only hatched girls! Then the daughters only hatched girls. That's a one in a million fluke. On one hatch I had 4 silkies and could never tell the males from the females-that's because they were all female.


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## chickenqueen (Jan 9, 2016)

Of course there will be pictures,Robin!Keep your fingers crossed,I just want pullets.I know my baby lays long, pointed eggs so I won't be using her eggs, unless something changes.Already got the incubator up and running and hubby saw the eggs I collected.Hasn't made any comments,which is good,I'm going to do it anyway,but not filling up the incubator,just want 10 or so birds.It will be Ameracauna/Cochin mixes,might throw a couple of Cochin eggs in,to see if I get any Blue Cochins-there's 2 gray roosters and 9 black hens.My only problem is I CAN NOT candle an egg,it never works for me but only tried colored eggs,can't see a thing.The last 2 times I relied on my nose!


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## robin416 (Sep 8, 2013)

We can walk you through candling. Unless the eggs are very dark brown you should be able to see a ton inside the egg even when they are beige. 

I'm not sure what you would get using gray males and black females. But blue is not a guaranteed outcome.


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