# Sick Banty



## nannypattyrn (Aug 23, 2015)

When we got home a few hous ago, I discovered another sich hen . She's on the roost and not moving. It looks like she's got runny poos and just feels bad in general. I treated her for something that I thought was vent gleet and she was better for several months, now she's down again. If she lives through the night, I'll check her again after some morning app'ts that I have. What else can I do but clean her vent with soap and water and betadine ?


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## robin416 (Sep 8, 2013)

Since I've been so hit or miss of late, is here a possibility that they are getting something they shouldn't? Aren't your birds pretty young?


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## seminole wind (Aug 22, 2015)

I would treat her for cocci if you can't find a reason for the illness.


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## nannypattyrn (Aug 23, 2015)

Robin, the banty was given to us, so I really don't know how old she is. She is an adult and has been laying for us since at least last summer. I just wormed with wazine, but she has a little diarrhea before I did. I just hope there's nothing going throughout my little flock. I'm thinking that the gen we just culled may have had the same thing. What should I use?


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## robin416 (Sep 8, 2013)

Can you do the ABC assessment with her? Do one head to toe. Make absolutely certain there is no external physical anomaly.

I don't think anything is moving through your flock where disease is concerned. You would have been seeing it in others by this time. Multiple others.


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## nannypattyrn (Aug 23, 2015)

That's just it, Robin. We just culled one for similar symptoms because we didn't know what it was and had no time to ABC her. I asked for the Corrid this morning and they didn't have any and gave me Tetra-10. I hope that it will be ok to use it. The Corrid, if they had it, was in gallon sized containers at $100. That's the reason I went ahead and got tetracycline.


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## robin416 (Sep 8, 2013)

No the drug is wrong. In a pinch you can use Sulmet. I'm pretty tired now so I'm going to stay general on this.

That suggests to me something is in the environment that they have access to. For me it was feed. I did something I never do, I fed my birds out of the bag. When I got a little more than midway down I spotted trouble. I was hoping things would be OK, I still ended up losing three hens.

Is there old food on the ground? Was anything used in the new chicken garden that might still be present? Basically try to be a detective and see if you can ferret out anything.


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## nannypattyrn (Aug 23, 2015)

Ok, thx! I'll check things out. I'll check out things and see if some of the other Farm store will carry the corrid or sulmet.


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## nannypattyrn (Aug 23, 2015)

I just happened to think about the medicated chick starter. It's amprollium isn't it? Could I use that and separate her from the rest of the chickens?


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## seminole wind (Aug 22, 2015)

Chick starter amprolium is a preventative, not a guarantee. Cocci I think 6 types can affect chickens. And not always when they're chickens.

Robin, Corid is right, I hope you're saying Tretra 10 is wrong. I most likely use Sulfadimethoxine. It's an anticoccidial and has some antibiotic qualities. So it covers a few common bacteria that have multiplied out of control. (what's the brand name0?

Save time by calling around. It's faster than driving around. Also, if you have shops for pigeons, cage birds, and maybe dogs, horses, cows, sheep etc. all use it.


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## Nm156 (May 16, 2015)

Starters are .0125% ,i believe .0250% is needed to treat ??


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## nannypattyrn (Aug 23, 2015)

Ok, thx, it was just an idea....


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## seminole wind (Aug 22, 2015)

https://search.yahoo.com/search;_yl...a+feed+stores&fr2=sb-top-search&fr=opensearch


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## seminole wind (Aug 22, 2015)

Amazon has Corid for a good price and you can get it in the mail tomorrow.


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## nannypattyrn (Aug 23, 2015)

Thx! I found some locally in powder form and liquid form for around $20.


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## nannypattyrn (Aug 23, 2015)

Ok, I'm frustrates, I had to sign in again just to post this.
grafic puctures: I'm thinking ATB tx is not going to help this girl. I don't know if this is impacted egg or bowel protrusion. I've never seen either. I cleaned her up and used betadine and vaseline. I'm thinking that culling at this point might be best.


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## robin416 (Sep 8, 2013)

She's not been eating for a while, that green is usually a sign.

Is it soft? Like squishy soft? That could indicate, dang it, I'm tired what you were thinking. If I wasn't tired I could think of it. Oh, just did, a form of prolapse. If it's more solid feeling it could be a tumor. 

Sem can fill in the blanks. I should stay away from these topics until I'm not so fried.


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## nannypattyrn (Aug 23, 2015)

I'm thinking what you are Robin. She has just stopped eating if that's true because she's not very wasted just yet. The protrusion is very firm to touch. I'm sorry you're exhausted. I've been where are now and it's very hard to relax and rest when our other half is so sick and not in his usual place.


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## robin416 (Sep 8, 2013)

You know, this could be an encapsulated foreign body. I wish there was a way to say, try this to see if the lump can be resolved.


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## MikeA_15 (Feb 21, 2016)

Especially with young birds, I treat persistent diarrhea in this order if it is not hot and they aren't drinking excess water that causes wet droppings. I deworm, treat for Coccidiosis, and since Histomoniasis is common here from cecal worms, I will always have Metronidazole on hand. If you don't see results in 3-5 days of treatment, I have found Lincomycin to be very effective against bacterial enteritis. Neomycin is not as effective as it once was. I would prefer to use Sulfadimethoxine rather than Sodium Sulfamethazine if you decide to use a sulfa drug. It is easier on the bird's intestinal tract.


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## casportpony (Aug 22, 2015)

Nm156 said:


> Starters are .0125% ,i believe .0250% is needed to treat ??


20 mg/kg of body weight needed to treat.

-Kathy


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## nannypattyrn (Aug 23, 2015)

Ok, thx! It was too late for this girl though. She was almost dead when I got home from work, we decided to cull.


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## casportpony (Aug 22, 2015)

nannypattyrn said:


> Ok, thx! It was too late for this girl though. She was almost dead when I got home from work, we decided to cull.


So sorry for your loss.


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## Nm156 (May 16, 2015)

casportpony said:


> 20 mg/kg of body weight needed to treat.
> 
> -Kathy


???

Corid, AmproMed, Amprol, etc.

FDA recommendations:
http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/animaldrugsatfda/details.cfm?dn=013-149
"Chickens
Indications: For the treatment of coccidiosis.
Amount: Administer at the 0.012 percent level in drinking water as soon as coccidiosis is diagnosed and continue for 3 to 5 days (in severe outbreaks, give amprolium at the 0.024 percent level); continue with 0.006 percent amprolium-medicated water for an additional 1 to 2 weeks."
http://www.chickenforum.com/f12/cocci-treatment-10631/ your post #6


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## casportpony (Aug 22, 2015)

Nm156 said:


> ???
> 
> Corid, AmproMed, Amprol, etc.
> 
> ...


If you decide to give it orally, the amount needed is 20 mg/kg per day. In water, it's 0.024% for a severe outbreak, which for chicks, since they drink more, works out to 20 mg/kg per day.

Does that help? Sorry, I'm not very good at explaining this stuff.


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## casportpony (Aug 22, 2015)

Think about it... how much does a chick, laying hen or non-laying bird eat/drink? All of these meds can be mixed with food or water, but one must consider how much food or water the ill birds will consume.


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## MikeA_15 (Feb 21, 2016)

casportpony said:


> Think about it... how much does a chick, laying hen or non-laying bird eat/drink? All of these meds can be mixed with food or water, but one must consider how much food or water the ill birds will consume.


Chickens drink twice the amount of water than they eat, so water dispersible medication or supplements are more desirable. You know this, but others may not. Depending on the medication and the amount of food in the crop, water dispersible meds take the longest since they must be absorbed in the intestinal tract, with the exception of neomycin/bacitracin ( a common treatment for E. coli infections of the intestinal tract) which does not absorb through intestinal lining.

If you give an injection into the breast muscle it is effective in about an hour. Subcutaneous is slower but lasts longer up to a couple days. That is why larger doses of antibiotics, for instance, are given subcutaneous. Lots of people make the mistake of injecting into the leg muscle which goes directly to the kidney which filters out foreign substances.

Sulfa drugs absorb well in the gut, but penicillin, gallimycin, and tetracyclines are only partially absorbed. That is why vitamin c or citric acid is used with tetracyclines, so it enhances absorption. I once practiced adding cranberry juice to water when using tetracyclines and the chickens appreciated the taste, and seemed to drink more. The old myth was that chickens don't taste food or drink, they only eat out of instinct to survive. I never though that was true and read science articles stating otherwise.
I don't use tetracyclines anymore but chlortetracycline has more absorption than oxytetracycline.


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## casportpony (Aug 22, 2015)

http://www.fvmace.org/FVMA_83rd_Ann...chnical Procedures for the Avian Patient.html

"Intramuscular injections
Intramuscular injections are often given more frequently in avian patients than in cats and dogs where IV catheters are more common. However, studies have shown that muscle necrosis happens frequently with intramuscular injections. Therefore other routes of administration should be considered when available. IM injections are most commonly given in the pectoral muscles located on either side of the keel bone. *Due to the renal shunt of birds, where blood in the lower part of the G.I and caudal extremities may pass directly through the kidneys prior to being filtered by the liver, it is recommended that injections be given in the upper two thirds of the birds' breast muscling. *These muscles also contain a higher number of capillaries making aspiration before giving the injection even more important."


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