# Wire bottom in hoop coop?



## Buddy (Aug 10, 2013)

I plan to get my first chickens this spring. I have had a lot of fun researching different coop designs as well as everything else regarding the keeping of chickens (I tend to over-research, but for me the planning is half the fun). Since many recommend being equipped to isolate birds when needed, I was thinking about a wooden “permanent” coop with an attached run, as well as a portable coop and run (ark or hoop coop design). My first thought was to build the permanent coop first, but it occurred to me that if I built the portable one first and kept chickens for a while, the experience might make me re-think my permanent coop design.

I am leaning toward a hoop coop design. The design is a 4x12 “tunnel” made of welded fence wire (1x2 openings). 3 to 4 feet of the end would be the indoor portion. The arch over the indoor portion would be reinforced with hardware cloth to keep predators out, covered with tarp material, and have a half-circle (2 foot radius) of plywood on the end and another between the indoor and outdoor portions (hinged doors, ventilation, roost pole, etc. as needed). The bottom of the whole thing would also be made of the 1x2 fence wire sitting directly on the ground. 

My questions: Will the chickens be comfortable with the wire floor on the ground like this? Will this be adequate for the indoor portion also? Should I worry about predators entering or reaching through the 1x2 openings in the wire on the floor? 

I really like the idea of most of the droppings going directly to the ground and I also like the price of this project – I think I can build this for well under $100.

Any input on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


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## powderhogg01 (Jun 4, 2013)

do that , then line establish a deep litter in the hoop. No cleaning, no poopy shoes. Just add yard waste, and be done


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## Buddy (Aug 10, 2013)

powderhogg01 said:


> do that , then line establish a deep litter in the hoop. No cleaning, no poopy shoes. Just add yard waste, and be done


What if I move the coop every week or so?


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## powderhogg01 (Jun 4, 2013)

I suppose you could. But I reckon threats a lot of weight to move about. I would keep the hoop, and move it less often..
I went all out, way over budget, built a fort Knox type coop, only to have it raided anyways. Keep it simple, and the rest will fall into place.


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## Buddy (Aug 10, 2013)

We have raccoons and skunks. I'm a little worried about a raccoon reaching up through the mesh underneath and grabbing them even if they can't get all the way in. What do you think about that 1x2 mesh?


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## powderhogg01 (Jun 4, 2013)

I have every predator North America has I offer, minus grizzly or polar bears. Any gap an inch or larger will allow a **** to reach inside. I doubled up some 1/2" chicken wire, works well


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## Buddy (Aug 10, 2013)

Thanks Powderhogg. I appreciate the advice.


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## powderhogg01 (Jun 4, 2013)

I am no means an expert. Just did the reverse of what your planning. And kind of wish I jad do e it the other way building a hoop firat


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## chickett (Sep 29, 2013)

I suggest that type of fencing 100%. So many bonuses like less cleaning and nice ventilation. They won't get hurt or uncomfortable because they roost on a perch. But make the holes large enough for the poop to fall through but nothing too big that their feet fall through it or animals come in. In mine I have diagonals, so it makes it a lot harder for predators to get through.


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