# How I became a Chicken Rancher



## TheLazyL

*December 10, 2011.*

Stop at Tractor Supply for a pond heater. See a chicken coop on display, walk over and look the coop over. Impressive.














































*December 14, 2011.* Download to my Kindle Chickens for Dummies.

*December 17, 2011.* Back to tractor supply to look at Chicken coop again and see what type of chicken supplies TS carries. Call the builder of the coop.

*December 19, 2011.* Meet the coop builder in person. Discuss options, add a ridge vent and agree on a price. Shake hands on the deal and handover a deposit. Coop will be delivered in February. Im going to be a Chicken Rancher!

*December 20, 2011.* Order 9 Buff Orpington (1 Roster) from Meyer Hatchery with delivery scheduled for May. Order an auto chicken door closer from Automatic Chicken Coop Door . Order software and control units from X10 .

*December 24, 2011.* The Lazy L Ranch. Clear out a space in the back yard woods for the coop. Coop will be delivered in front of the overhead door. Im planning on using a come-a-long chained to trees and to the coop to move the coop over the wood board walk and to the cleared area.










Bridge and boardwalk back to the Lazy L.










Area brush cleared out for the coop (at the back, between the two trees in the center of picture).










Wifes cat cemetery maintain. Maybe expanded to handle chickens too?










*December 22, 2011.* Automatic chicken door arrives!

*December 28, 2011.* From Amazon.com (free shipping) I ordered a Hanging Feeder Cover , Miller 9112 12lb. Galvanized Hanging Poultry Feeder and a Little Giant2 Gallon Double Wall Fount 9832 . For when they are little a QT Jar Galv Feeder Base and a Miller Mfg. 9826 Steel Fountain Base







 .

*December 29, 2011.* Decision is made to paint the coop Evergreen and Surrey Beige to match the existing building. During lunch pickup wood primer and paint for the Automatic Chicken door.


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## TheLazyL

*10, 2012.* Automatic Chicken door painted (Yep. I've got a chicken door and no coop). Loaded the automation software in computer and produced (I'll be keeping my day job) a video on how the Lazy L is planning on automated the coop.

youtube.com/watch?v=mYOwEqrEqpw&list=HL1340284069&feature=mh_lolz


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## TheLazyL

*January 24th*

Wireless Web Cam for the chicken coop arrived!









Coop will be beside the shop which is about 100' from the house. The wireless network I have in the house doesn't reach that far









I do have a RG6 coaxial cable (CATV) that runs from the house to the shop that isn't in use. A quick web search show that there is a Ethernet to coaxial cable converter!







 . Figure out the programing for the web cam. Pan, Tilt, email notification on alarm, sweet









Order the Ethernet to coaxial cable converter and wait









*January 25th*

I work for a small Independent Telephone Company. I asked out Internet Division for a static IP for my web cam (so I can monitor the coop from anywhere in the world. I get same day service, 66.249.232.196.









But they start talking about port redirection and mapping









*January 26th*

Ethernet to coaxial cable converter arrives. It is really "plug & play" ! No programing to mess with and I ignored the CD that came with it and it works!









Figure out the "port redirection and mapping" in my DSL router and test.........fail. Guess I don't have it figured out









When I get the "port redirection and mapping" figured out I'll post the link so y'all can fall a sleep watching my auto chicken door (sitting on the my work bench) go up at dawn....zzzzzzzzzzzzz....door go down at dusk.

*January 27th*

The ground needs to be frozen in order for me to be able to get the coop back where I want it (using Planks/plywood, PVC pipe as rollers, chains to trees and a come-a-long







). So I order my coop to be delivered end of the month or February. With Al Bore's "global warming" ground barley freezes before it thaws out again. Think I'll call the Builder and tell him to go ahead and bring it ASAP. Then I can install the auto chicken door, electrical wiring and web cam.









Then come spring I can tie pontoons on the coop and float it out where I want it


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## TheLazyL

*January 28th*

I called the Builder today. Coop is almost done!

*February 14th*

Trying to get all the details worked out for when the coop arrives.

One thing I wanted was a thermometer in the coop. By panning the coop cam I could see both doors, roosting area and see what the temperature is.

Found a electronic one with hi-low, indoor and outdoor temp with LARGE LCD numbers for $25 at China-Mart. I bought it. Indoor temp would be the temperature of the coop and I would put the outside temp sensor...outside! Then I would know how much warmer the coop is compare with the outside temp.

Got home, ripped the box open and installed batteries. Reading the instructions I learn that the inside temp only registers down to 40 degrees! BUMMER! And when the coop cam is in night mode you can't read the LCD display. DOUBLE BUMMER.

Plan B.

I went to the local small town hardware store. Hanging all the top of the wall covered in years of dust is about a dozen circular thermometers. One has a cartoon picture of an owl. Clerk gets a ladder and brings it down. Made in 1998, $15 AND made in the USA!

When I get home tonight I'll put the thermometer beside my automatic chicken door. Hope the coop cam will be able to read it tonight.

Coop cam can be seen at: http://66.249.232.196 Username: visitor, password: coop (works with FireFox browser, IE if Active-X is enabled).


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## TheLazyL

*February 24, 2012*

I just called the Coop Builder. He has just a few finishing touches and wants to know if he can bring it out ... tomorrow morning?

Let me think about this....YES!

So everything is on schedule except for the ground being frozen.

I've got March and April to wench the coop into position, AC wiring, install the automatic chicken door and web cam. Build the 6' x 20' secured run.

And then wait till the middle of May for the call from USPS announcing the BOs have arrived!


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## TheLazyL

*February 27, 2012*

Coop was delivered!
I was planing on dragging it (chain and come-along) and ramping it over the wood sidewalk and mud this evening to it's final resting place. Then install chicken door, camera and electrical.

Now I'm thinking about leaving it in the shop driveway to install the chicken door, camera and electrical. Why walk thru the mud back and forth 50 feet when I got a dry solid driveway to work off of?


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## TheLazyL

*February 27, 2012*

Ran a temporary extension cord for power out to the coop. Moved the coop camera, chicken door and thermometer from the "test bench" into the coop!









Wireless camera doesn't work now.







.

X10 remote open/close chicken door doesn't work now either.









Thermometer is hung crooked.









The new "No Trespassing" sign looks great (IMHO).









SUPPER's READY! RATS!









After supper it's getting dark quick! Found a looooong Ethernet cable, wired the camera direct, nope still doesn't work









Chicken Door closed when I plugged it into the extension cord so I know I got power...mmm...found the problem







You see people my age wear progressive lenses (young talk for tri focal) glasses. I plugged the power into the camera in the audio port instead of the power port. Camera works now!









Changed the permissions so viewers can now pan & tilt the camera. http://66.249.232.196 Username: visitor, password: coop (works with FireFox browser, IE if Active-X is enabled).

Trouble shooting the chicken door and straightening the thermometer will have to wait till tomorrow

I'm closer...getting closer...


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## TheLazyL

*February 28.*

Cut the hole in the wall and temporary installed the chicken door.

Thermometer is now straight.

Still can't get the chicken door to open/close automatically. Exact same setup and extension cord that I used when it was on my "test bench". Puzzlement. I'm using a electrical receipt at the other end of the shop...distance limitations?

Got the box for the overhead light switch mounted.

Dark and cold out. Time to stop. I've got till the middle of May when the BOs arrive.

*March 1*

Automated chicken door works!

Worked on the "test bench" doesn't work when installed in the coop









Used the exact same extension cord, same electrical outlet still didn't work









Replaced the X10 appliance module, still didn't work.

Hmmmm.........rebooted the computer and now it works!









Tomorrow night start working on the permanent wiring....


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## TheLazyL

*March 6*

Weather finally got above freezing!

I secured he chick door to the studs and temporally installed the outside trim. I want to take of the trim off when I paint the coop. Then when I reinstalled the trim I'll caulk around it so rain water does not follow a siding groove down and leak back into the coop.










I don't know what automatic chicken door is the best. I decided on the one offered by automaticchickencoopdoor.com My only concern was how much I would have to customize the outside trim which was included with the door. Their installation video showed 1/2" plywood and my coop is 3/4" barn siding. No problem, trim was designed to fit varying thicknesses of siding.

Then I moved on to the electrical. I decided to use PVC conduit to help prevent any of the chickens from becoming "Kentucky Fried".










The gray box on the left will be the X10 light switch. I can control the lights from inside our house, let the computer control or manually flip them on/off.

Also from the left box a conduit will run down thru the floor. This will go back to my shop and will be the electrical feed for the coop.

The gray box above the window will one of the two coop light fixtures.

Gray box to the right of the camera will be a electrical receipt for the camera. I'm figuring higher the better, less chance the chickens can reach it to unplug surveillance for any great escape attempts.










The second light fixture above the other window. Then X10 electrical outlet to power the chicken door. I may put another outlet down further for a heated waterer, wide screen high definition flat screen TV or what ever else the ladies may require.

I've read in the chicken ranching business there are only 3 rules. Ventilation, ventilation and ventilation. Just above the electrical conduit you see a little outside light shining in? About a 1/4"" gap to allow fresh air. I can also open both front windows, back wall behind the roosting bars is a 4 foot by 8" screened vent that can be open/closed AND I added a roof ridge vent. Plus in warmer weather when drafts will not be as much as a problem the floor (under the roosting bars) opens up (screened) to allow more ventilation and let the chicken's night business to fall on through.

Tomorrow night I'll pull the wring in the conduit, wire in the electric receipts, light fixtures and light switch.

Then it's waiting for the ground to dry out so I can move the coop to it's final resting place.


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## TheLazyL

*March 7*

Got the wiring pulled through. 2 circuits, one for the lights and the second for the receipts. Used 14 gage solid copper, largest draw will be the waterer heater.

I did add a second receipt in the corner. Mounted both of them at a 45 degree angle to make it easier on me.

The PVC boxes have "ears" on each of the 4 corners for mounting. I didn't use them. Instead I drilled two holes through the backs so I could mount them on the 1 1/2" of the studs.

1/2" PVC conduit was left over from another project, thought I had some receipts laying around too, couldn't find them. Hate to buy stuff if I don't need to.

Weatherman is calling for dry and "warm" temperatures the rest of the week. If the ground drys out then perhaps I can get the coop winched back where it belongs this Saturday.


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## TheLazyL

*March 13*

Removed the "extra" 4 next boxes. Now I can move the feeder and waterer out of the main coop and have access to them from the nesting box access door. Now 2 nesting boxes left are in the low traffic area of the coop, by the peole door.

Next project is to figure out how to make a wood feeder that is installed semi-permanently and can be filled by just lifting the nesting box lid.

Unfornutately the waterer does not fit though the nesting box lid. But it does allow me to slide it over to the people door. Maybe home made waterer with a invert easy to exchange rubber bladder....


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## TheLazyL

*March 14*

I wired the Coop for two interior light fixtures.

And in the light fixtures I used two political correct CFL (compact fluorescent lamp). Something like a 14 watt equaling an unpolitical correct 60 watt incandescent.

Here's a picture of the coop at night with the interior lights on (think I might have over done it a bit on the lighting). Anyone know where you can get sunglasses for chickens?


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## TheLazyL

*March 17*

Here's the problem. I need to get the coop from here:










To here:










Step one. Call the Son to come and help!

Step two. Use a telephone pole choker around a strategic placed tree (good thing I live in a woods) and a come-a-long.










Step 3. Other end of the Come-a-long to the chain fastened to the one of the runners on the coop.










Step 4. Start cranking the come-a-long to turn the coop.










Step 5. Once the coop is turned 90 degrees re-hook the chain to both runners and continuing cranking the come-a-long as need to dragged coop west.










Step 6. Select another tree and turn the coop another 90 degrees (North) to get ready to go up and over the board sidewalk.










Step 7. Cement blocks and 2x8x8' planks to get over the side walk. BANZAI!



















Step 8. Almost there.










Step 9. Home at last...home at last










Step 10. Hydraulic jack, a level, patio bricks and a few cement bricks level the coop. This view also shows where the secured run will be built.


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## weirdo

This entire thread is great. Thanks for sharing in detail!


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## CCWriter

This is so cool! I followed the link and scoped out the chickens too! That is awesome


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## Keith

What a tremendous resource and write-up! Thanks so much for sharing.


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## Chiefbuzz

*Chicken Rancher*

I learned a bunch and gained some new ideals but most of all Laughed not at you but I had always though only I could have so many things happen to a person like did you. I do have a new worry and that is my wife read the thread and seen the pictures and loved it all so being that I'm still in the building mode I can see what I was going to build changing muchly......

Great Thread hope to see more !


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## TheLazyL

*March 19*

During lunch I stopped at the local provider of man tools and picked up the electrical "stuff" to run power to the coop.

Wife took her mother shopping so I have the whole evening to play.

I had previously wired the coop and stub out a 1/2" conduit.










And in the previous post I mentioned I was lucky for living in a woods, well lucky until I tried to dig a trench in the wet clay through all the tree roots. But I had only 15' to dig and being a bit on the stubborn side helped.










Got the trench dug. Since the distance between the coop and my shop is only 15' I directed buried the electrical cable. Depth of the cable _should be_ below the frost level. Ran 14 gage (with ground) cable into the coop conduit and glued the fittings together and connected the wires.










Lay the cable in the trench and covered. Then ran conduit up the shop porch post on the backside (coop side) so it can't be seen from the house side of the post.










Now was a good time to provide for a electrical receipt that will come in handy when I build the secured chicken run. At this electrical receipt location is where I made the transition from buried electrical cable to interior cable.










VERY VERY IMPORTANT. For the receipt use a GFI. Think about it. A waterer sitting on top of a electrical water heater. Or a Nut with the bright idea of using a power saw to cut tree roots while standing in wet clay. It would be bad to have Kentucky fried chickens, it would be worse to 120 volts cursing thru your body as your life flashes (literally) before you.










Shop is 20' x 30' (NO IT WOULD NOT MAKE A GOOD COOP!). So I had purchased 50' of 14/2 electrical cable to go from the GFI receipt to the shop's circuit breaker panel. I was 2' too short. So on to Plan B which to installed electrical receipt inside the shop above the circuit breaker box. Tomorrow's lunch hour I'll walk up to the local hardware and see if I can buy 10' of 14/2.

Better idea! Anyone know where I can rent a cable stretcher?


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## TheLazyL

*March 20*

Local hardware had a scrap piece of 14/2!

Here's the receipt where I ran out of cable. New receipt will eliminate a extension cord I had used for extending wireless Internet out into the shop and for the future wall clock.










All I have to is pull the gray wire into the conduit down to the circuit breaker box, connect to the 15 AMP breaker and the electrical to the coop project is done!

Shoved the wire down from the top. It makes to the 90 degree bend and stops.

Pull the wire out, trim the end so it pointed and try again. Stops at the bend.

Pull the wire back out, shove it into the conduit at a different spot. Stops at the bend.

OK. Scratch the 5 minute project and bring in the big guns.

Run a fish tape in the the conduit from the circuit breaker box end. Connect fish tape to the center conductor on the electrical cable. Tape real good. Pull carefully so the metal fish tape doesn't touch anything "hot" in the breaker box. Cable gets almost thru the bend and...SNAP! Center conductor breaks off of the fish tape!

OK this is stupid. They make a special "soap" for lubricating electrical cable to help pulling cable into conduit, I don't have any. But the Wife has left for a hen (the other type of hen) party, I "borrow" her bottle of dish washing soap. (*Disclaimer.* I'm not a Electrician. I have NOT slept in any hotel lately and I think the year is 1868).

I push the fish tape back thru. Reattach the electrical cable to fish tape. I pour some dish washing soap into the conduit by the new receipt. Pull a foot of the fish tape back out, pour more dish washing soap, pull tape, dish washing soap, repeat until cable pops into the breaker box!

Connect the cable to the ground, neutral and to the 15 AMP breaker....it worked! Now have permanent power out to the coop.

I even remember to wipe down the dish washing soap bottle and return it before the wife misses it!

Next project will be the secured coop.


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## TheLazyL

*March 23*

During lunch I picked up 50 2 x 4 x 8' treated.

*March 24*

I went to Mom's. Took off the snow blower, rolled her lawn, sharpen the mower blades and mounted the mower deck on the tractor. Did her taxes.

Then I used Dad's radial arm saw and cut 12 of the 2 x 4 x 8' in half for wall studs for the secured chicken run. Got home and unloaded the lumber. Too late to start building


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## TheLazyL

*March 26*

After supper I got the front wall of the secured chicken run done.

Front wall and both end walls studs are on 16" centers and will be covered with 1/2" hardware cloth. Took a 2" x 4" x 8' and cut in in the middle for the vertical studs, overall height just under 4' 3". Horizontal pieces are two, 2" x 4" x 8' and one half of a 2" x 4" x 8' for a overall length just under 20'. No scraps!

Back wall will be covered with steel installed horizontally so I figured studs on 24" centers will be adequate.

Used 3 3/4" deck screws to fasten it together. Then if when I make a mistake or later want to reuse the lumber it will be easier to take apart.










A closer detail view of the design. The 2" x 4" turn on edge is to give rigidity, keep the litter in the run and provide more support for the roof.


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## TheLazyL

*March 31*

I got the North 20' chicken run wall up. Studs are on 24" centers and will covered horizontally with steel roofing.










End wall (West) 6' with studs on 16" centers. Design change, I was going put the people door in this wall. Then I thought why walk all the way down to the far in to enter the coop, why not put the door on the East end? I will add two chicken doors on this wall at a later date for open ranging.










And then the South wall, also with studs on 16" centers. Did have to break out the chainsaw to encourage a tree to move out of the way. The two boards across the top are temporary and support the front and back walls until I get the roof on.










With the help of scrap treated lumber and 8" cement blocks, got the walls level and square. Then the fun part of trying to figure out the roof slopes. Coop roof has a 5/12 pitched roof (every 12" horizontally the roof slopes down 5").

Start building the East wall (also with studs on 16" centers). North slop matches perfectly with the coop! South slope is way off! I'm going to have do a rethink on this.










The relocated people door is on the left. It's 24" wide and almost 72" tall. I need to do a rethink on this too.










*April 1*

I'm investing way too much money and time in this for only 8 + 1 chickens. I get the screw gun out and start taking the run apart and drag the coop out to the front yard and put a For Sale in the window...........................................................April Fools!

As I'm sleeping thru the Sunday afternoon's NBA game, I'm doing my rethinks and redesigns.

1. Instead of roofing the entire run I'll do the first 8'. That still provides weather protection and allows me to hang the feeder in the run.
2. Raising 12" of the front (South) wall will correct my roof slop and provide for a larger people door.


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## TheLazyL

*April 2*

I got the roof slopes figured out to match the coop's. I just had to add 12" of height to the front wall to give me the roof slope I wanted. This is the part of the run that will have a roof over it.

The picture also shows the 8" blocks I had to use to bring the wall into level. Looks like I'm going to wheelbarrow a lot of sand for fill.










The run roof angles match the coop's! YEA!









Now I can move on to the rafters and the people door design.


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## TheLazyL

*April 4*

Wife was on the phone when I got home from work. That meant supper will be late! Which means I can work on the run longer!









Used the first rafter that I had cut previously as a pattern, cut 6 more rafters. Put the long side of the rafters up first, then the short side. The bottom end of the rafters I used 1 screw up from the bottom to hold it in place for now. I need to get some of those metal plate duffers to fasten them better.

Walls are a bit wavy so I made sure I measured from wall to wall before fastening the rafters to the final wall.

Roofed section of the run I can almost stand upright in as long as I'm under the high part. Hang the feeder and doing routine maintenance should be easy. The unroofed section I'll have to stoop a bit but I will not be spending a lot of time in there, no problem.

People door I'm still thinking about. Not quite sure how I'm going to build it. Doors are usually the weak points in security but I don't want to build it so "heavy duty" that it weights down that corner of the run. Maybe a 2" x 2" frame with 3/4" barn siding to match the coop?










Some type of tunnel between the coop and the run.... recommend a solid floor. Something with screened sides and perhaps a small roof that is removable for cleaning and allows easy access for painting the coop.


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## TheLazyL

*April 9*

Finally had some time to spend on the secured chicken run.

45 degree bracing for the roof. Left a small space between the top of the brace and the roof line to allow the future plywood roofing to clear.










Studs to the end rafters. Notching and cut the right angles was a bit interesting. Once I got the first one figured out the rest were easy.


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## TheLazyL

*April 11*

During lunch hour I stopped at the purveyor of Man tools (lumber yard). Got home from work no wife, which means supper will be late. Change clothes and hustle out to the coop.

1" x 4" x 8' for the roof edge trim boards.










A full 1/2" x 4' x 8' and a 1/2" x 15" x 8' CDX exterior grade plywood for the back side of the roof. Nice side of the plywood down. Running low on 7p nails so I just tacked it on for now.










That left a piece of a 1/2" x 33" x 8' plywood that was EXACTLY the correct size for the front roof. NO SCRAPS! I couldn't have done that intentionally if I had several lifetimes to plan it.










Roof edge trim will be painted Forest Green to match the coop. Found some "old" paint the would work as a primer, so I gave the board a coat before the drip edge molding is installed. Maybe I should have paint both ends of the roof (2 x 4) too?

(*Disclaimer.* I'm not a Carpenter. I have NOT slept in any hotel lately and I think the year is 1868).


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## TheLazyL

*April 13*

(*Disclaimer.* I'm not a Roofer. I have NOT slept in any hotel lately and I think the year is 1868).

Forecast is calling for rain tonight and tomorrow. So I better get the roof shingled!

I wasn't going to use roofing felt because I'd have over half of a roll left. But then it runs against my grain not to. At $16.72 a roll it's cheap insurance.

Got the roofing felt on, aluminum brown roof edge molding and started throwing on the shingles.










I used the same architectural type shingles that the coop Builder used. 3 in 1 shingles you just cut them into 3rds for ridge caps but architectural type shingles require "special" ridge caps. They sell the "special" ridge caps in 30 foot lengths, I only need 8 feet! So I cheated and didn't use ridge caps.

The shingles on the back roof (left) came up and over the peak by about 4". The front roof (right) shingles went up and over the peak and over lapped the back roof another 4" and fastened with aluminum roofing nails. Unless you're a Hawk circling over head you'll never notice that I "cheated".

Architectural type shingles have an advantage over the 3 in 1. The scrap that gets cut off at the end of the first row can be used to start the second row and so forth. Less scraps! You don't need to line up the tabs (because there aren't any) like you do with 3 in 1 shingles.










*April 14*

Looks like it's going to rain any second. So I'll stay in the shop to cut and assemble the horizontal wire fabric supports for the for the secured run's flat roof.










Not raining yet.









If you take a clamp and a scrap piece of wood you will have a "extra hand" to hold the horizontal wire fabric support in place.










Add the horizontal support and fasten with deck screws.










And when you are done you have a support system that *****, foxes, coyotes and dogs can jump up and down all day without collapsing the welded wire fabric (at least that's the plan).










Still ain't raining (There are only two jobs where you can be wrong most of the time and still keep your job. Weather Forecaster and Politician) so I move on to the other end of the run.

Finished the framing for the people door. I ran out of lumber and energy so I'm done for the day.


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## TheLazyL

*April 18*

When I built the 4 walls I leveled each wall as it was built more or less.

Then I started pounding, banging and crawling on the roof to build the rest of it. Figured the leveling may have changed. So I used a 6' level, 2 x 4 x 8', some scrap wood and started at the "high end" to re-leveled the entire coop. Then I'm planning on bring in sand to wash under the walls to maintain the level.

I wanted to make sure all was level before I sided the back wall and install the hardware cloth.










Using the 2 x 4 x 8' as a lever, pushing down on the far end raised the wall. Slide scrap pieces of wood under the wall until level.










Yep. Looks level to me!


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## TheLazyL

*April 24*

UPS delivered the wire fabric today. Evidently the shipping label fell off which caused a day's delivery delay. Since I got the wire at 50% off with free shipping what's one extra day?









Got the bottom half of the run covered in wire so I could frame and install the Chunnel floor (tunnel between the coop and run). The rest of the Chunnel will be built after the coop is painted.










Once the floor for the Chunnel was built the rest of the wall was covered. I'm just tacking the wire in place for now. Once all the wire is on then I'm planning on permanently fastening it with fender washers and screws.

The bottom of the wire I didn't tack. I want to install all the long pieces of wire first. Then I'll come back with "L" shape scraps to make a flair out from the walls 12" to 18" to prevent predators from digging under the walls.










The back wall will be sided with steel siding so I wrapped the wire around the corner. When the steel siding is fastened in place it will hold the wire securely in place.

I also over lapped the wire 1". Planning on weaving a wire in the overlap to prevent predators from pulling the seams apart.










Remember! Always wear and use safety equipment and gloves when working with metal. Fortunately I'm left handed and didn't need my right thumb. I performed first aid by the tried and true manly method of sticking the thumb in my mouth and sucking on it until the bleeding slowed.










Then I moved on the the other end of the roofed section of the run. I wanted to bend the wire so I measured the 11" and laid a 2 x 4 across the wire.










Then using my knees to hold the 2 x 4 in place I bent the wire up.










Why did I need to bend the wire? I was concerned about leaving a gap in the wire where the wall met the roof. So I applied the principal about extending wire out past the bottom of the runs to prevent predators from digging under the wall to this situation.










Measured the width I needed, 84". So I had a "male moment" and proceeded to cut 72" instead! I'll piece it in later with a piece of scrap. If I don't say anything about it no one will ever notice!


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## TheLazyL

*April 27*

For this evening's project you will need the following:

1 3/4" construction screws
Wire cage clips








3/16" x 1" fender washers
Wire cage clips tool


















I overlapped the wire fabric 1". I was planning on weaving a wire thru the 1" over lap to prevent predators from forcing their way in. Then I found these wire cage clips and the tool to apply them. Cool! A coil of aluminum is much better and quicker!










Then I used the construction screws and fender washers to security fasten the wire fabric to the run.










I haven't installed the wire cage clips on this section yet.

I left excess wire at the top and both ends to wrap around the corners, like wrapping a Christmas gift. A predator will have to pull out the screws and fender washers, then go thru two overlapped in different directions layers of wire to get thru a seam.










We had some rain during the day and the ground was muddy.

Look what I found on the threshold on the run door and on the nest box lid! Looks like a raccoon is already doing a recon.










I'm not sure what this is a track of....possibly one of the million stray cats the wife feeds?


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## TheLazyL

*April 27*

Before I cover the front of the run with wire fabric I want to fill the run floor with sand. That would be easier then trying to carry the sand thru the 24" people door.

20' length x 6' width x *.*7' average depth = 84 cubit feet / 27 = 3.1 cubic yards.

Local Gravel Pit tells me about 1 1/2 yards = 1 ton. So I needed about 2 tons to fill the bottom of the run.

Washed sand is 7.25 per ton. Delivery charge is $35.

Cost $35 to deliver $14.50 worth of sand....hmmmm....if I double my order to 4 tons then I'm sure to have enough sand and I can do a paving brick type sidewalk to the coop too! *Done!* They will deliver this afternoon.

So for $64 I get 4 tons of sand and many many enjoyable trips with a wheel barrel hauling sand back and forth, back and forth, back and forth...

Word of advice. Don't have sand delivered after a rain. You will be paying for more water then sand! Wait until several days of nice dry weather to before your have your sand delivered.

Local Lumber Yard sells bagged play sand for $3.53 in 50 pound bags. That would be 160 bags and $564.80 for 4 tons. Ouch!

8700 pounds were delivered as promised for a total (including delivery) of $78.73

Notice the stray cats are already using it as a giant litter box!










Well it didn't take me long to scrap the wheel barrel method of moving the sand to the run. I brought out the big guns.










Plan is to fill the run to the top of the 2 x 4. That will give me a sand depth of 3 1/2" on the "shallow" end and almost 12" on the "deep" end. When the rains have washed enough sand under the walls to support them, then around the outside of the walls limestone to keep the sand from washing out further.

Here's a picture of how much the first wagon load covered on the "shallow" end.

I tempted to see how much the neighbor would rent his Bobcat with a Driver...but then the exercise will not hurt me...shovel in, drive in a circle, shovel out, drive in a circle, shovel in, drive in a circle, shovel out, drive in a circle, shovel in, drive in a circle, shovel out...


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## TheLazyL

*April 30*

I've got a dilemma.

I ordered two pieces of gray steel siding cut to length from the local Lumber Yard. Web tracking indicates my order arrived yesterday (Sunday). So today during lunch hour hi ho hi ho off to the lumber yard I go.

Yep they got my order. Fork Lift brings it down off the rack...green siding!....wait....they took two new pieces of green siding and sandwiched my 2 pieces of gray in the middle!

Now I've got 4 pieces of perfectly good siding for the price of 2! AND the green also matches the shop color scheme too!

What plan should I go with? Note. Both ends walls, front wall and 2/3rds of the roof are 100% open (covered in wire fabric.).

*Plan A*. Steel siding is going on the back wall which is 53" in height, siding is 30" which left 23"for ventilation across the top. Save the 2 green pieces for some future project.

*Plan B.* Use all 4 pieces. Overlap them (no cutting) to allow for 8" of ventilation across the top.

*Plan C*. Use all 4 pieces. Overlap them (no cutting) to allow for no ventilation across the top.


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## TheLazyL

*May 7*

Still shoveling sand into the run.

8 + 1 BO will be here in twoooooo weeks.


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## TheLazyL

*May 11 & 12*

Got tried of hauling sand so I worked on the putting on the steel siding on the back wall. I should have waited until I had some help, but I made do.

Steel siding overlaps the wire fabric about 4" at the top and 2" at the bottom.










Doesn't look to bad does it?










Had a few screws left, why save them so I added more screws on both ends. Lets see a predator get thru this!










A few more loads of sand...










Finally got all the sand hauled and shoveled in the run!!!!

Got most of the front covered before I ran out of wire fabric.










Fasten the seams together. I was hoping to have enough wire fabric to make it all the way but I ended up about 12" short. If I had known I would have been short I would have put the seam over a stud, pan washers and screws would have secured the seam.










All that is left is wire fabric the flat roof and a few small areas, finish the Chunnel and make the door.










8 + 1 BO will be here next week. I'd better stop dinking with the run and prepare a space for the BOs in the coop.


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## TheLazyL

*May 18, 19 & 20*

All the wire fabric is installed. Got a few places that need a few more fender washers and screws.

Removed all the hardware and doors from the exterior of the coop and started painting. Primer first.










Give the entire coop one coat of primer.

Play a few games of Xbox Black Ops live while the primer dries, then paint the light gray color.

Play a few games of Xbox Black Ops live while the gray dries, then paint the green trim.

Play a few games of Xbox Black Ops live while the trim paint dries, then rehang the doors and install the hardware.

Still got the roof edge trim to paint and windows, need to get a smaller brush.










Installed the ramp that came with the coop at the end of the Chunnel.

Floor of the Chunnel is treated 2 x 4 and a scrap piece of 5/8" plywood.










Then the walls and roof for the Chunnel. Easier to paint the trim before the roof drip edge molding is installed.

Why the green smudge on the front? Well you see if you shake a quart of green paint when the lid isn't on all the way, the lid comes off when you vigorously shake the can.

I quickly became the green incredible hulk.

Fortunately I wasn't wearing a shirt.

Unfortunately the wife has white carpet and white linoleum in the house. Do you see the problem?

Fortunately I didn't drip any green paint into the house as I leaned in from the garage to yelled for the wife.

Unfortunately the wife was upstairs getting ready for a wedding shower and couldn't hear me yell.

Fortunately we live in a woods with no real close neighbors.

Unfortunately the well water was very very cold.

Fortunately no one (at least no cops showed up) was traumatized by seeing a 58 year man washing his birthday suit in the backyard.










The backside of the Chunnel. Was going to make two slope roof to match the coop and run. But then I decided it was a lot of extra work for "just chickens", especially when you could not see it from the front.

The four shingles left from the run's roof should be just enough to cover. Silicon caulking so rain water doesn't leak in between the Chunnel roof and the coop.










Finished painting the Chunnel. Opening in the front will be for a Plexiglas window with green trim.










*May 21*

Just confirmed the 8 + 1 BO were shipped this morning! Will be here tomorrow! Warned the Post Office and gave them my telephone number.

I've got a corner of the coop partitioned off for the peeps. Tonight add the pine shaving bedding covered with paper towels, water, feeder and the Brinsea EcoGlow 20 chick brooder heater.

Cut and paint the trim for the Chunnel window and install with the Plexiglas.

Finish painting the roof edge trim making sure the lid is on tight before shaking the can.

Then all that is left to do is building the run's people door and sit back, wait for all the money to roll in from selling the 1 dozen surplus eggs I'll have every week.

Figure the money I have in the coop and run, if my children's children's children keep up the business, we'll break even in about...


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## jn4

Thats not a coop!! Its a chicken CONDO and resort!!!

Fantastic!!


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## TheLazyL

*May 21*

Bedding is down. Wondering if I should cover it with paper towels to keep bedding out of the waterer and feeder?

Heater is plugged in, power light came on and the coop didn't burn down during the night. I've got the power cord "tied" so the fluffy butts can't accidental unplug it.

Feeder is filled with DuMor Chick Starter/Grower 20% (non-medicated).

Waterer filled.

Received email confirmation from Meyer, chicks shipped yesterday after noon with arrival 22 - 24.


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## TheLazyL

*May 22*

BOs left Mansfield Ohio yesterday at 3:51 PM

BOs arrive at South Bend Indiana today at 8:10 AM

Bos left South Bend at ?

9:40 AM. Walked to the local Post Office. No chicks. Advised mail from South Bend goes to Goshen for "sorting" then to local Post Office. arghhhh!

Call the Goshen Post Office. Nope they don't have any chickens...well that answer saves me a half hour car trip.









*10:09 AM* Goshen Post Office called. They are holding some chicks for me!

Drove to the "Big City" Post Office.

No they don't have any chickens for me, they went out to be delivered! No wait...they got two shipments today, here is yours.

Carried them out to my truck, man the bottom of the box is warm. Wonder where the PO was storing it?

The box Meyers shipped them in is a mini Fort Knox!










They pack extra bedding inside to help keep the chicks warm AND a heat pack. That explains why the bottom of the box was warm to the touch.

All nine chicks alive and are peeping MAMA! MAMA! MAMA!










I went ahead and laid paper towels on top of the bedding.

And as I learned on this forum, I dip each chick's beak into the water (careful not to get it's nostrils wet) and them a dip into the feed.

I thought they would all be thirsty, nope. All tried to feed out of the same hole in the feeder.










I moved the water over closer and one "found it" and took a long drink.

I also turned the heater 90 degrees and few "found it" too. Considering they are all Blonde's, I think we're good for now.

You can see them at http://66.249.232.196 Username: visitor Password: coop


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## grapegrower

What brand is your camera and software?


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## TheLazyL

grapegrower said:


> What brand is your camera and software?


I purchased the camera from X10 and the software was included.

http://www.x10.com/promotions/airsight_wireless_ip_camera.html?HP2


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## Chiefbuzz

*Hows things working down on the Farm??*

Hey I was wondering how your X10 camera and other electronic gadget's are working ? I'm in the last stage of assembly and thinking of doing some of what you have done with the electrical and camera. I love gadgets and stuff like it and this will give me a chance to put some in.

Also what have you done for ventilation ? I was thinking of some fans to continually blow fresh air in and around and out. I am concerned about keeping any respiratory issues away and it can get warm her in New Hampshire at times.

I love your blog and almost sorry it came to a end with the completion of the Coop. I laughed so hard and got the wife in and we both had tears running down our face. You have done a great job.

Any information you can pass on please do I have been hooked into this chicken thing by marriage, but watching my wife with her Girls and boys also 2 Ducks has been well worth it. Thanks have a wonderful day, Jerry and Jeannie AKA chicken herdsmen


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## TheLazyL

Chiefbuzz said:


> Hey I was wondering how your X10 camera and other electronic gadget's are working ? I'm in the last stage of assembly and thinking of doing some of what you have done with the electrical and camera. I love gadgets and stuff like it and this will give me a chance to put some in.
> 
> Also what have you done for ventilation ? I was thinking of some fans to continually blow fresh air in and around and out. I am concerned about keeping any respiratory issues away and it can get warm her in New Hampshire at times.
> 
> I love your blog and almost sorry it came to a end with the completion of the Coop. I laughed so hard and got the wife in and we both had tears running down our face. You have done a great job.
> 
> Any information you can pass on please do I have been hooked into this chicken thing by marriage, but watching my wife with her Girls and boys also 2 Ducks has been well worth it. Thanks have a wonderful day, Jerry and Jeannie AKA chicken herdsmen


X10 camera working fine was using it several times a day, now once or twice a week. 

Automatic door I did run into one bug in my design. If the door is open and you plug in the power the door closes. If the door is closed and plug it in the door opens. I had one Utility power failure during the day and when the power was restored the door closed! Fortunately I noticed it when I got home from work. 

When the X10 power loses and then regains power it sends me an email. All I have to do is remember that what I get the email to also check the chicken door when I get home, open or close?


Ventilation. Coop has two frontwindows that lean in, rear 48" x 8" vent about roosting height, 60" x 24" ventin the floor under the roostering bars (can be covered in the winter time) and ridgevent along the roof peak. Ventilationthru the chicken door too when it is open.

Northern Indiana has had unusually warm late spring and summer. Temps in the 90's and one entire week in the100's. Chickens do have access to asecured run (floor is all sand) and plenty of water. 


Thank you. I do have some more pictures thatI'll get posted in the near future.


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## TheLazyL

*May 23*

Got the Chunnel finished. Plexiglas window with trim. Roof shingled.

The four yellow things on the edge of the roof are clamps. I put a heavy bead of silicone caulking along the edge and waited to in sure the roof "stuck". Stuck my nose into the coop and all I could smell was wood chips. No silicone fumes with chicks laying on their backs and legs pointed towards Heaven!

Door for the run, finish coop trim and a few minor details will be completed this weekend. Then I can just sit back and watch the money roll in from all the eggs I'll $oon be $elling...


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## TheLazyL

*Memorial weekend*

Built the run people door. Use two pieces of 1/2" exterior grade plywood back to back to make a 1" thick door. Then used the scrap pieces for the raised decorated sections. Coat of primer and then a coat of gray.










Finished painting the coop's roof edge trim










Painted the windows gray and hung the run's people door.










Copied the latch the the Builder used on the coop for the run. It will keep out the predators and any two legged a padlock can be used.










Use screws and pan washers to secure the wire fabric at the roof's overhang










Flag is a flying.










Chicks are one week old today. They are big enough to fly to the top of the heater.










One of the chicks found a piece of colored wire insulation and is playing keep-a-way!






One of the chicks had poopy butt. About the size of a small Lima bean. Soak it's bun in warm water until I got it broken up and off of her/him. The other chicks started picking at her/his butt so I gave them some spinach leaves to distract them. It worked! They was afraid of the spinach!


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## TheLazyL

*May 29*

78 degrees F in the coop and the chicks are still periodically using the heater! Guess I'll wait a week before moving the legs on the EcoGlow up a notch.

I ordered 1 rooster and either they sexed wrong or I got a defective rooster. 8 days of age and still no crowing...







...and still no eggs either!

Seems like they been crappy at each other, so I gave them more elbow room (or should that be wing room?) in the coop and removed the paper towels. Got their minds (chickens have minds?) off of each other and onto the bedding.


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## TheLazyL

*June 4*

All 9 chickens have celebrated their 2 week Birthday today!

The little pooping machines sure do grow quick.

I noticed the last few nights they were sleeping half under the heater and half out. I figure since they have double in size they were too hot so I raised the heater up one notch on the legs. I also took the opportunity to clean all the poop of the top of the heater too.

Then they all huddled in to corner giving the eye because there was something "strange" about the heater.










After they all had a conference they decided the heater wasn't going to attack them and all is well.










They liked "roosting" on the black legs of the heater (and pooping all over it). So I added a log that was a little higher then the heater legs. Didn't take them too long to figure out it was a good place to sit and watch over their domain. Hopefully this will help keep the top of the heater cleaner.


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## TheLazyL

*June 7*

I used 3 bales of wood chips to restrict the chicks to half of the coop. Chickens were using their log roost to get to the top of the bales! If they flew off on the wrong side they wouldn't be able to get to their heater.

So I stacked the bales of wood chips in the corner, blocked off the two nesting boxes so they have access to almost all of the coop.

I also put in a roosting bar at the lowest position. Didn't take long for chick to start using the roosting bar!










Cute aren't I?


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## TheLazyL

*June 9*

Chicks are spending less and less time by the heater and I'll be working outside today. So I opened the chick door to the run.

Cautious little poopy butts they are! Took them about 2 hours to finally stand in the doorway, couple of more hours to actually go into the chunnel.

By the end of the day they had pooped all over the floor of the chunnel but won't go down the ramp into the run.

So I turn on computer control so the chicken door would start opening (at dawn) and close (at dusk) automatically. Coop lights will come on 15 minutes before dusk and off 15 minutes after dusk.

My main concern that at their age (not fully feathered) they still need heat and I don't want any to get locked out of the coop. So I'll be doing a beak count via coop cam every night to sure they are all in.


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## TheLazyL

*June 11*

Chicks are 3 weeks old today!

1 is noticeably smaller then the others, has hardly any tail feathers and a more pronounced comb. Wonder is this is Lucky the Rooster or the one that had poopy butt?

They will go into the Chunnel but haven't gone down the ramp into the run. At the rate they are pooping in the Chunnel I'm going to have to cover the floor wood chips too.

This evening I went out to feed them and 7 were in the run! Two were in the coop under the heater. I was wondering if they could figure out how to climb up the ramp and get back into the coop. As I was putting the feed and fresh water in the coop 4 chicks came to eat. So they must have figured out the ramp!

Stood and watch for a while and all 9 braved the new world of the run with sand instead of wood chips floor.

I now getting ready to go to bed. Check the coop cam chicken door is closed but no chicks. Walk out to the run, no chicks. Check the Chunnel, no chicks. At the far end of their roosting bar where I stack the bales of wood chips is sitting at least 5 chicks. All crammed into a L shaped corner. They look plumb tuckered out!

Not sure where the other 4 are at and I don't want to panic them, I'll wait until morning and see if the others show up.


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## TheLazyL

*June 11 evening and night*

I've notice when they feel uncomfortable they do everything in herds. Exploring the run.


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## TheLazyL

*June 12*

This morning I went out and did a peak count. 8 sitting on the roosting bar.

Checked the run and Chunnel. No 9th peak









peep...peep...sitting clear at the top of the coop on a second roosting bar that I had put up there so the bar would be out of the way is number 9!










Breakfast time!!!


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## TheLazyL

*June 12*

Something must have spooked then because they stay in the coop all day.

65 degrees in the coop and they are not fully feathered. Shouldn't they be under then heater?


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## TheLazyL

*June 14*

Stray cat took off when I went out to feed and water the chicks.

Chicks must have been in the run today. The few weeds that were in there are gone!

They been roosting at night at the highest bar, all huddled together so I took out the heater.

I still have 8 (hens) + 1 (rooster). Knowledge I read on this forum must have been good!


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## TheLazyL

*June 18*

They are four weeks old today.

They sleep on the top roosting bar about 3 feet from the floor. How they get up there I haven't been able to catch on the web cam.

They love cheese.

They were drinking a quart of coop water a day until they found the 5 gallon waterer in the run. Now about 1/3 of a quart from the coop.

There are enough chick people watching the coop cam that I have to unplug it when I play Xbox Black Ops. Serious bandwidth problems!

They are almost fully feathered except their neck and heads, except for one. The one I'm expecting it to be Lucky the Rooster. Do BO roosters mature later then the hens?

They are back spending their day in the run. Whatever had scared them earlier is ether gone or the chicks figured out they are safe (so far).

I still have something (I suspect *****) digging around coop and leaving prints on the lid of the nest box access. Since ***** are normally night animals I'm putting together a little surprise for them, stay tuned.

(insert evil laugh here).


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## TheLazyL

*June 19*

Almost out of the first 10 pound bag of DuMor Chick Starter Grower. During my lunch hour I stop at Tractor Supply to get another bag, $7. Happy Hen Premium Meal worms treats, $15...hmmm...a bit pricey but it's worth a try.

Get home from work, change clothes and put on the outside only mucking shoes. Since I've put feed and water in the run too, the coop's feed and water don't need filled. I flick into the run a meal worm...I get a mild response. Dump in about a dozen worms, no interest from the chicks.

Wife had some pea pods and carrots scraps. Throw those into the run, chicks show no interest.

A weed with high moisture content, throw that in and the chicks go nuts fighting over it.

Anyone who want a barely used can of Happy Hen Premium Meal Worms treats for $15 plus shipping let me know.


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## TheLazyL

*June 23*

Got a bunch of sand left over from the run plus I received a gift card for Father's day.

So I hauled more sand and bought patio blocks from the local lumber yard.

This area is usually muddy in the Spring and late fall and a sidewalk would be nice. Now I need to haul in some topsoil to cover the sand.


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## TheLazyL

*June 29*

Figured out why they didn't like Meal worms. Anything that is dropped above their heads into the run they will not fight over. BUT if you bring it down to their eye level instant game of keep away!

Still waiting on a back ordered item to complete the **** surprise...


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## TheLazyL

*July 1*

The **** surprise is going to take awhile to put together because one key part is back-ordered









BUT the Son was home so we did a preliminary testing. Found one bug that will need to be resolved and learned that the ***** show up after 2 AM.

Run floor is all sand and I watch the chicks (6 weeks old tomorrow) give themselves a dirt bath.


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## TheLazyL

*July 2*

When I was cleaning out driveway fountain I found a beetle a good 1 1/2" in length. Caught the beetle and carried in out to the chicks.

Hilarious!

Lucky grabbed that beetle and play keep-a-way for a good 5 minutes until one of the ladies did a full body check on him, knocking him backwards and causing him to drop the beetle. Another 5 minutes of passing the beetle between the Ladies with Lucky in hot pursuit. Finally the chicks got tried of playing and the winner took the beetle off to a private corner to devour. "What are you eating over there?" And another game of keep-a-way is started.

The chick in front is (at least I strongly suspect) Lucky the Rooster (but unlucky in playing keep-a-way).


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## TheLazyL

*July 16*

If I did the math correctly they are 7 weeks old today and I still have all 8 + 1. This is Lucky the Rooster eyeing the camera.


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## TheLazyL

*August 11*

Thought I'd give them a bit of free ranging. So I cut a hole on the west end of the secured run. I added a header and wrapped the wire fabric around the 2 x 4s.










I couldn't find a "U" shaped channel iron, so I went with a flat iron, a 3/4" square tube (for a spacer) and another flat iron. This will allow the plywood guillotine door to side up and down. In this picture I have the slide lag bolted to the right side of the opening.










It took Lucky and some of his girls time to figure out there was a hole in their run.










The rest of the ladies weren't to sure about this!










While I'm figuring out how to make the door I'll used a temporally piece of plywood. Eventually I want to put up a 4' fence around their "free range" area. I need to be able to open and shut the door without having to climb over the fence, I got and idea...


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## TheLazyL

*August 18*

Free Range door painted and installed. This end of the run will be fenced so I will not have easy access. A bit of rope, pulley and "U" staples solves the open/close problems. Notice the loop tied in the end of the rope.










The loop tied at the end of the rope goes over a nail which holds the door open.










Lucky the Rooster checking out the Open Range door.


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## TheLazyL

*October 2, 2012*

When I got home the ladies were in the coop a singing!

It's a bit early but could I have some eggs?

Nope. Computer controled chicken door didn't open and the ladies were locked in the coop all day. They were MAD!

Thinking I'll scrap the computer control for a cheap timer. Really doesn't matter if the door opens/closes at dawn/dusk since they have a secured run.


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## TheLazyL

*October 11, 2012*

No eggs

But the Ladies combs are turning from pale pink to red...soon...very soon.

Can you find Lucky the Rooster?










Giving the "eye" look for the camera.


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## TheLazyL

*October 13, 2012*

When the wind is from the south we can hear the neighbor's rooster crow.

I was working in the backyard and heard a weak rooster crow.....another weak crow....neighbor's rooster....no wait sound is from the wrong direction...

Lucky is crowing!

Now if the hens would start laying and the final part for the **** surprise would arrive, all would be good.

Lucky is the one front center that is looking to peck my shoe.


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## TheLazyL

*October 20, 2012*

It's Saturday morning and I topped off the feeder, rinse and refill the water.

Open the lid to the nesting box...EGG! THERE IS A EGG LAYING IN THE NESTING BOX!

Egg looks like it got pecked a few times.

A few hours latter Lucky starting crowing and the hens were sing a different clucking song. Open the lid to the nesting box and a hen is sitting. I checked back at noon and...A SECOND EGG!

I've got 2 hens a laying. *







*


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## TheLazyL

*October 21, 2012*

Checked the nesting boxes...no eggs









Got home from church, changed clothes, sneaked up on the coop...ANOTHER EGG!

I've got 3 hens a laying (sounds like a Christmas carol doesn't it?).

8 BO hens laying every other day = 28 eggs per week. I'm in the money! $3 a dozen.

I owe Aunt Mary for the million zillion egg cartons she has collected for me at the local retirement home.

Trading neighboor lady eggs for her home made bread.

Eggs for our own use.

That leaves 3 eggs per week to pay for the chicken coop $X,000, secured run $X00, $20 of feed per month, misc suppiles $X00 and the Kawasaki Mule 610 (to haul eggs from the coop to the house).

I'M IN THE MONEY.....


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## TheLazyL

*October 22*

2 eggs

*October 23*

1 egg

*October 24*

2 eggs

I assume two ladies are laying a egg each every other day and a 3rd hen is laying the 1 egg. Now if the other 5 hens would get in on the act....I'm got expenses to recoup!

*October 28*

2 eggs

*October 29*

2 eggs

I've got 4 hens a laying.

Ran a electrical outlet into the run and plugged in the water heater. I am a bit confused. Water heater warning label states water heater is not to be around water!


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## TheLazyL

*November 5*

Son emails and asks if the coop cam is working?!

So I punch in the IP, user name and password........and.................yep it's working.

I click the audio button at the top and I hear the ladies clucking.....but they should be outside. So I pan the camera and there is 3 ladies all trying to stick their necks into their favorite nesting box. Why don't they just go in?

I've been getting 2 eggs a day from 8 hens, all layed in the same nesting box except one. One of the hens slacked off on Saturday, only 1 egg that day. With 8 Buff Orpingtons I figure full egg production should be 4 eggs a day.

I continue to watch.....there is a hen in the box already....the other 3 will just have to wait their turn OR use the other nexting box! Nope. One hen pushes her way into the box another hen exits and stands outside, watches and waits.

One of the hens got tired of waiting and went into box #2...


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## TheLazyL

*November 8*

Funny watching the coop cam. Hens' take turns looking into the nesting box. "Are you laying an egg? Is that what a egg looks like?"

3 eggs today! 2 were in the nesting box and the third I found in their run. The third egg looked like it was used to play chicken rugby but it wasn't cracked.

I have a demented hen and that is the one I suspect laid the third egg.

What is a demented hen you ask?

I open the gate to let the chickens free range. All but one figured out how to walk thru the gate.

Chickens free ranging for about 10 minutes and the "demented one" just discovers it is alone in the run and starts running back an forth squawking. So I patiently herd it towards and thru the gate.

Free ranging time is over. Herd the chickens to the run gate and in they go. Excepted for the "demented one". She continues to run pass the gate. I drag out some plywood and construct a funnel pointing toward the gate and finally get the "demented one" back in the run.

Or I pass out treats. The rooster and dominate hens grab the treats first and run. The "demented one" stands there with a "wonder what's going on" look. So I throw a treat at her feet when the other hens aren't looking. "Oh. There is something at my feet. Look fellow flock members, there is a treat laying by my feet". And one of the other hens "poof" treat is gone.

Maybe the "demented one" is actually just playing dumb and is setting up the dominates for a fall and a change in the power structure....nah I don't think so.


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## TheLazyL

*November 10*

4 eggs today!

Cover the part of the run that isn't under roof with a mouse chewed tarp. That will help keep snow out of the run this winter.










*







*

*November 11*

4 eggs today too! That means all 8 hens are laying.


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## TheLazyL

*November 30*

5 eggs for 5 days, then back to 4 eggs.

Got 2 nesting boxes but they only use one until...the lowest in the pecking order hen went broody. So now they either crowd in with "Broody" to lay or use the other box.


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## TheLazyL

*December 8* - 2 eggs

*December 9* - 6 eggs!

*December 10* - 6 eggs!

Beginning to wonder if some other chickens are sneaking in to lay eggs.


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## Trixy

As a "future" chicken keeper, I cannot thank you enough for the attention to detail and humor in your postings for this thread! Your project's path is eerily similar (but much larger!) - I look forward to seeing how your 8+1 do for you.


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## TheLazyL

*January 10, 2013*

Most eggs in one day 7!

Average is 5.

Sold my first 2 dozen to the same customer for $3 per dozen.


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## ReTIRED

VERY NICE job ! ( and well-documented )
Have the chickens made you *RICH *yet ?
_*Ha-Ha !!! *_
-ReTIRED-


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## birdguy

ReTIRED said:


> VERY NICE job ! ( and well-documented )
> Have the chickens made you RICH yet ?
> Ha-Ha !!!
> -ReTIRED-


Rich in eggs LOL


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## TheLazyL

ReTIRED said:


> ...Have the chickens made you *RICH *yet ?
> _*Ha-Ha !!! *_
> -ReTIRED-


Well...I was almost breaking even on the feed then 3 hens went broody...


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## ReTIRED

TheLazyL said:


> Well...I was almost breaking even on the feed then 3 hens went broody...


*It's to YOUR "benefit" !
*You'll have MORE laying Hens in about 6 months.
*You should contact your Tax-Advisor ! *Be Prepared *!*
( Profit ain't Profit...unless you can KEEP IT *! *)
*Ha-Ha !!! 
*-ReTIRED-


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## TheLazyL

*July 3, 2013*

Unusual wet summer. Run floor is sand and is above grade but usually has a big puddle of standing water where I didn't cover with a roof. BOs don't mind walking thru the puddle but I do mind cleaning the mud off of their eggs!

Option 1. Thinking about covering the non-roofed section of the run with fiberglass panels. Read enough negative reviews for me to rethink.

Option 2. Corrugated galvanized steel. My main concern with steel is the noise. My shop has a steel roof and when a hickory nut falls 40' and hits the roof it is LOUD!

Option 3.  PVC roof panels

Option 4. Rip of the hardware cloth. Remove the 2 x 4 framing that supported the roof hardware cloth. Build a shingled roof like the what's on the one end.


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## Bee

Or...you could start a deep litter system in the run that will promote bug and worm life in the soils underneath and will turn hard packed soils into spongy and healthy soils that absorb the water so that it no longer stands in a puddle, and cleanses the soil as it is absorbed. 

Deep litter= no mud, healthier bacterial life in the run, nitrogenous droppings are composted instead of building up in the soils and birds have a more natural habitat that resembles the forest floor in their run. This also provides them with activity and extra proteins from the bug life that will live there, as well as provide a place for the growth of beneficial cultures that will inhibit the overgrowth of more harmful pathogens as long as you promote that healthy environment.


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## TheLazyL

*July 4, 2013*

I did a flip flop in my thinking and went with the fiberglass panels. Most of the negative reviews I read about fiberglass panels stated didn't last long in the sun. The panels I bought have a 15 year warranty IF you put the marked side towards the weather.

The first panel I cut 1 1/2" off. I wanted the corrugated to go up to help prevent funneling water into the run.










Chickens went nuts when I tried to get the debris off the run. They DO NOT LIKE shadows above them. One hen tried to turn herself into spaghetti by running into the 1/2" hardware cloth. So I let them out to free range while I got the sticks and hickory nuts off, that will have to do.










All done. Panels were 8' in length which left a 7" overhang front and back. Wind should blow thru and not up on the overhang...time will tell.










Lucky the Rooster with part of his harem inspecting their new drier digs.


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## ReTIRED

You might want to consider _Raising _one side of that corrugated roofing ....to provide for water-flow of rain-water and/or snow.
( Just leave the hardware cloth as it is and build a wooden support ....say 12 inches on one side and 6 inches in the center....it's 
NOT much of a _PITCH ...._but probably more than sufficient. )

ALSO....There are some liquids available that you can SPRAY on materials such as your corrugated panels and/or clear plastic -- which shield these things from UV radiation from the Sun (which is what causes the deterioration). I used some on the cheap plastic covering on my Garden (hoophouse) Greenhouse. It works good for a while....then redo it about every 30-60 days. It really works.
I don't presently recall the NAME of that product....but a Google Search for "UV protection Spray" _should _find it for you.

ReTIRED-


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## teachfit

Thank you for this post!!! It has given us so many ideas as we build our coop and run. We too have a camera system (got it for the goats initially) and I love being able to keep an eye on my ladies during the day. 

Waiting with baited breathe for the **** surprise!


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## TheLazyL

ReTIRED said:


> You might want to consider _Raising _one side of that corrugated roofing ....to provide for water-flow of rain-water and/or snow.
> ( Just leave the hardware cloth as it is and build a wooden support ....say 12 inches on one side and 6 inches in the center....it's
> NOT much of a _PITCH ...._but probably more than sufficient. )...
> ReTIRED-


I had thought about a slope. We can have heavy snows so I wondered with a unsupported 7' span how long the fiberglass would last. Also with the panels only fasten to the run at the ends how long before the wind would take them off? No slope solved both of these problems.

The "hill" of the corrugated is an 1" tall. I'm figuring the rain will "fall" of the edges before building up to an 1" and into the panel seams.


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## mselainey

As I prep for my coop and girls, I have enjoyed your posts tremendously. Lots of things to remember from your work. Cage clips, electrical, ... how you put it together. What fun.. (yeah I know it's a lot of work but betcha there have been loads of grins.) Thanks for the smiles, the info and the inspiration. Your hotel and spa for your flock are impressive.

Also, waiting for the **** surprise!


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## cga

Thank You for the great tutorial and pictures.

Excellent information for those of us, just starting out. 

Cliff.


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## TheLazyL

*November 11, 2013*

General updates.

The automatic chicken door I didn't need. Since the run is secured, I just leave the door open. Chickens can come and go as they please.

Lucky was tearing off the back feathers from his favorites. His life expectancy was put on the short list.

2 months ago they went thru their molting. Egg production dropped to none or a egg a day. Only one has some missing back feathers so Lucky received a reprieve till Spring.

Last night we had our first snow. Daylight hours are short and I don't provide any extra lighting in the coop (I'm cheap). 1 or 2 eggs a day tops. I'll have to do some reading to see if egg production is down because of the shorten days or because they have passed their peak egg laying.

After last winter Lucky has some frostbite damage on his comb. So this winter I'm leaving the poop cover on the floor off.

Right now I'm figuring early next spring all 9 BO's will be joining the noddles for supper (they will be almost 2 years old). Replaced with a dozen RIR or Barred. Might try hatching the replacements...


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## kessy09

If you'd like, you can try to keep a rotating flock of young ones to keep egg production going while the older ones take their break. It's the way my grandparents did it and I've heard multiple people on here do it as well. Chickens at point of lay in the fall or early winter don't take a break and they don't molt the first year-regardless of extra light or not.


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## nj2wv

I am starting a rotating flock and so far so good.


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## TheLazyL

Rotating flock.....hmmmmm....I don't have a way to separate them nor the inclination....OK to let a Broody raise the next generation without the older generation killing them off?


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## kessy09

TheLazyL said:


> Rotating flock.....hmmmmm....I don't have a way to separate them nor the inclination....OK to let a Broody raise the next generation without the older generation killing them off?


You betcha. That's the best way! Cheap (as in free) and easy (as in no work for you). The broody will protect her babies.


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